Inside the former Wetherspoon that’s been turned into UK’s ‘most anti-Brexit pub’

Walking into The European pub in was a blessed relief as rained down on the cold street outside. I suppose that is what public houses are designed to be. The smell of its £350,000 refurbishment still hovered in the air as I entered, the Victorian property proudly displaying its latest iteration after being The Drum under Sir Tim Martin’s company Wetherspoons, and subsequently The Spark House – “home to contemporary electronic DJs”.

The Beatles, Roxy Music and The Smiths, my kind of tunes, came through the speakers, and a blackboard proclaimed: “We’re not saying it’s the best roast in Leyton… but we’re also not saying it isn’t.” Punters can sample dishes like charred leeks, duck and chicken parfait and even grilled octopus for a starter, and chow down on the likes of coq au vin pie, fire roasted cauliflower and confit duck leg for a main. The sort of dishes you would struggle to find on a Wetherspoon menu.

A tad early for my meeting with Jake Miller, the creative director of the pub’s parent company, Remarkable Pubs, I went to the newly built bar and ordered a half pint of the Five Points Best bitter. It would have been impolite not to, you will understand. Looking around, it was clear the building has recently been revitalised. New floorboards were underfoot, and pictures displaying European culture adorned the walls, dating from the Renaissance to 20th century French nightlife.

In one corner was a glass case containing some taxidermied birds. The pub was relatively empty at around 1.30pm that Thursday afternoon in east London. A mum and who looked like her parents sat near the window, a gentleman was sipping a Guinness at a high table near the bar, and husband and wife Martyn and Marina Harris were enjoying a glass of wine and beer respectively.

Mr Miller, 58, works with his stepfather, Robert Thomas, who is still the chairman at 81 years old. We sat down at one of The European’s larger tables, and I asked him if the pub’s name was a dig at renowned Wetherspoon boss Sir Tim Martin. A wry smile appears on Jake’s face, and he says: “It is a humourous little dig. We have very opposite views on the situation. It was an opportunity to have a bit of fun.” Has there been any backlash? “Not that I know of. It’s been really busy.” On whether he was hoping the Wetherspoon boss has seen what has become of his former venue, he adds: “It might be quite nice if he did.

“But I’m not sure whether he would, or whether it would bother him.” Regarding his views on , Jake tells the Express: “I am a staunch feeler that it shouldn’t have happened, but I don’t really want to get into the political side of it. It was Robert’s choice to call the pub The European, but we’re both believers that the EU was a good thing. Strength in friendship and unity.” Jake adds: “The name was going to cause a few eyebrows to be raised in some circles, it just seems to be no big deal really. Inside we celebrate all the good things, the cultural past really. Not hammering home any strong political message.”

Later that day, Robert, who is abroad in America, passionately lays out his view. “The borough of Waltham Forest was overwhelmingly remain,” he says. “So it’s not much of a hazard displaying the EU flag and teasing Tim Martin. My personal view is that the advent of the new barbarism of Farage, Johnson, Rees-Mogg and the remainder of the deluded of the ERG or, come to think of it, the hard left of the Labour Party who persuaded the voters to leave the EU, has failed us strategically and economically.”

He adds: “The voters were persuaded by populist nationalism strikingly similar to what we see coming out of the Oval Office [in the White House] now. What we’re interested in is the restoration of pan-European co-operation leading ultimately to the formation of a democratic powerhouse to match the economic and military power and security to that enjoyed in the USA and an emerging China. Unity is strength… With the advent of MAGA and the preposterous Trump in the USA this proposal does not seem so radical as just absolutely necessary.”

Back at the pub, I also chat with retired psychiatric nurse Martyn, 69, and former graphic designer Marina, 66. When asked if they approve of the pub’s dig at Sir Tim, the former, who used to be in a glam rock band called Big Bang, says emphatically: “Yes!” His wife, who he met in a nightclub 39 years ago, agrees: “Yes, very much so.” The Italian native, moved to the UK from Bologna in 1984. She adds: “It all just sounds nice because I am European.

“The name is brilliant. If somebody doesn’t like it, well there’s other pubs around. Why wouldn’t they like it anyway? The UK isn’t in the EU, but it’s still in Europe geographically. Some people, for some weird reason, don’t like the name Europe now.” “Mainly old gents” would visit the pub when it was a Wetherspoon, Marina adds, “getting a bit of food and one pint of whatever; they’d sit here for hours”. Martyn adds: “It was a bit like an old folks’ home before.”

Sitting at the other end of the pub is “Aussie Mark”. Sipping on a pint, the 45-year-old brewer says: “Tim Martin’s a big boy, I’m sure he can take the joke. If he can’t, maybe he needs to have a think. I doubt he cares, to be honest. I think it’s funny, but whether or not that translates into longer-term business for them, that’s what they want, right? Hopefully it’ll stick around.” He moved to the UK just over 17 years ago and voted Remain in 2016. Mark adds: “I’m a fan of pubs, personally. More pubs is a good thing.”

A couple of tables away sits Matt Toner, 54, a project manager, with his friend from Brescia in Italy, Giacomo Viola, 55, who is in England for a few days. The pair are enjoying a pint of Guinness. Mark, who is “generally a pro-EU person”, says the new name made him smile. He prefers the new look, as it’s “more individual”. Mr Viola says he quite likes the pub and replies “I would think so” when asked if he thought was a bad thing.

Retired freight and passenger train driver Andy Rigby, 65, is sitting at a ledge overlooking the area where Martyn and Marina are sitting.

He tells the Express: “I didn’t realise [why] it was called The European. It doesn’t bother me, . One way or the other. It’s a nice pub, and they’ve made an improvement on what it was. People slag off Wetherspoons, but it wasn’t too bad.

“The worst thing was when it became The Spark House. That was a right disaster. It was very expensive and the food was rubbish.”

He adds: “I was a Remainer but had my doubts. I’ve seen some of the regulars in the Drum that went up the road to other pubs in the last couple of weeks that have been in here. I think it’s down to the price, mainly, and the quality of the beer and food. I don’t think politics should come into it, really. It’s a nice pub. Nice and warm, good food, good beer, nice staff. I’d come again.”