The monkfish spaghettini were full of flavour (Image: Melanie Kaidan/The Express)
Anyone who’s been to London’s Duke of York Square at least once in the past 22 years has inevitably noticed this classic and sophisticated venue with its alluring terrace and trendy clientele.
Manicomio has long been a defining presence in this little , proudly overseeing the square’s happenings right next to the prestigious Saatchi Gallery.
The decor is elegantly understated, with small floral arrangements adorning friendship reunions, date nights atop wooden tables, and individual table lights setting an intimate atmosphere.
The service truly reflects what this emblematic eatery wants to represent: simplicity, luxury, and attention to detail.
And my Friday night dinner further proved why locals chose this place repeatedly.
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Upon arriving at my table, graciously presided over by my punctual guest, the restaurant manager greeted us warmly to ensure we wouldn’t go thirsty.
As the drinks menu unfolded, a tempting selection appeared: six fine wines and five dessert wines, each offered separately.
Though I was initially drawn to the Gavi di Gavi, a wine I tend to favour, it was a refreshing cocktail featuring a lively blend of lemon, elderflower, and mint that eventually captured my attention.
Soon after, a plate of warm, golden focaccia arrived at our table. Crispy on the outside yet soft on the inside, it was accompanied by decadent extra virgin olive oil for dipping, which was pure indulgence.
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The chicken Milanese was the true star of the show (Image: Melanie Kaidan/The Express)
I couldn’t resist the Burrata Pugliese for the antipasti, paired with fresh Sicilian tomato, black olives, basil, and a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Alongside it, we shared a perfectly crispy mushroom and buffalo mozzarella arancino, which was golden and crisp as it should be.
Moving on to the starters, we opted for smaller portions of pasta dishes, which could also be ordered as mains in bigger portions.
The carbonara was everything it should be – creamy, slightly salty, and crowned with an abundance of crispy pork cheek.
While it wasn’t cooked al dente, a minor imperfection for anyone who shares my appreciation for slightly chewy pasta (a trait my Italian ancestors might’ve frowned upon, admittedly), it was still thoroughly enjoyable.
The Monkfish spaghettini with broccoli rabe and chilli were delicate and refined. It was a perfectly balanced dish that left me looking forward to every bite and wanting more once the plate was empty.
The arancina was a flavour explosion (Image: Melanie Kaidan/ The Express)
However, the chicken Milanese was the true star of the show. It delivered on every front with a lovely golden brown exterior, the ideal chicken-to-coating ratio, and a delicious topping of flavourful Hispi cabbage and Parmigiano. There’s not much more you could ask for from a dish.
Unfortunately, the meal’s finale didn’t quite live up to the rest of the experience. The Tiramisu’s flavour was dominated by an overwhelming coffee taste, while the Mascarpone filling was nearly undetectable, buried beneath the bitterness.
The lemon tart fared a little better. It was disappointingly unbalanced, with an overpowering combination of tangy zest and cloying sweetness.
My takeaway is to forgo the full experience and indulge in that dreamy, crispy chicken Milanese, a more satisfying meal.