Kiloran Bay on Colonsay looks like the Bahamas (Image: Sophie Law)
Around 189 inhabited islands pepper the UK’s coastline, with tourists often flocking to popular haunts such as Jersey, the Isle of Wight, and the Isle of Skye.
While these islands draw summer crowds, celebrities, and even royals to their shores — and Kate regularly holiday on the Scilly Isles — there are numerous lesser-known spots that are equally beautiful.
One such island is Colonsay, which, in my opinion, is — if not the UK’s — best-kept secret. Known fondly as the “jewel of the Hebrides,” I was lucky enough to visit the island and have returned five times since.
With golden-sand beaches reminiscent of the Bahamas, turquoise waters, salty sea air, and freshly caught seafood, this island is strangely addictive – and I recently packed up my bags and headed back for my yearly fix.
But it appears not many people have actually heard of the island, which I’ve come to learn all too well by many puzzled faces.
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The island is known for its beautiful views and wildlife (Image: Sophie Law)
Anyone I know who has visited Colonsay (and not many outside my family have) is immediately charmed by its slow pace of life, wild swimming spots, and breathtaking vistas — not to mention its slightly milder climate (by Scotland’s standards, anyway) thanks to the Gulf Stream.
Summer is naturally the busiest season, but this off-the-beaten-path destination is not a place with bustling crowds or fast-paced adventures.
Colonsay’s serenity and natural beauty allow you to unwind in one of Scotland’s most remote paradises, all while making you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time a few decades.
Apart from people coming and going on the CalMac ferry, there are no tourists crowds here. With around 125 inhabitants and its nearest neighbouring community almost 20 miles away, Colonsay is, in fact, one of the most remote communities in the British Isles.
Measuring just eight miles in length, the island is small, with only one road snaking around its perimeter which cows and sheep freely wander on. But what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in charm—and there’s surprisingly a lot to do.
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Colonsay is full of golden-sand beaches with blue water (Image: Sophie Law)
What does Colonsay have to offer
For those who love food and culture, Colonsay offers distilleries, a bookshop, a microbrewery, a hotel and bar serving delicious fresh seafood, a café, a golf course, and even an art gallery.
For wildlife and nature enthusiasts, the island provides opportunities for wild swimming, paddleboarding, walking, stargazing, birdwatching, exploring peat bogs — the list goes on.
Upon arriving on the island, my first destination is always the renowned Kiloran Bay, often described as one of Scotland’s most beautiful beaches. With waters gently lapping at the shore, there is rarely another soul in sight.
The beach stretches out in a wide, sweeping curve, while behind you, dunes and grassy hills rise, speckled with wildflowers. The water is cold, of course, but impossibly clear.
Cows and sheep freely wander the roads (Image: Sophie Law)
Other beaches include Ardskenish, Balnahard, Machrins, Harvard, Queen’s Bay, Cable Bay, and Pig’s Paradise.
Do be prepared for island life, though. Wi-Fi is virtually non-existent, or patchy at best. Mobile phones only receive a signal in certain parts of the island, so you really are off-grid.
Ferries to and from Oban run once a day during summer, dropping to four times a week in winter. However, if the weather is bad, they are cancelled, leaving you essentially stuck on the island.
If you’re looking for a digital detox, this is certainly the place to be. Once you get over the initial cravings for doom-scrolling social media, you’ll find yourself relaxing into the island’s slow pace of life.
The island has plenty of beautiful cottages to stay in (Image: Sophie Law)
Without the distractions of modern technology, simple pleasures — such as long walks, reading by the fire, and watching golden sunsets — quickly become the highlights of each day. Evenings are quiet, with only the sound of the wind and waves outside.
Seafood is a big part of the island’s culinary scene, and during my stay, I indulged in fresh scallops, haddock, and smoked salmon. The island’s famous Colonsay Smokery proudly states that it smokes its salmon “the old-fashioned way,” by hand.
Meanwhile, the Colonsay Hotel serves up delicious lobster, mussels, and freshly caught fish every day, all against the backdrop of a crackling log fire and views of the nearby islands of Islay and Jura. The Pantry, a café by day and a restaurant by night, offers a delicious fish platter (although preordering is essential).
If it’s booze you’re after, Colonsay has plenty. The distilleries — including Colonsay Wild Island Distillery and Wild Thyme Spirits Distillery — are a unique part of the island.
Colonsay Hotel serves fresh seafood (Image: Sophie Law)
Colonsay is, of course, known for its diverse wildlife. Seals are a common sight here, and during a spot of extremely bracing wild swimming — wetsuits are essential — we spotted a lone seal bobbing nearby with curious eyes. Whales and the occasional porpoise can also be seen swimming off the coastline of Colonsay and Oronsay, the nearby island that can only be reached at low tide.
Far more elusive are the island’s otters, which can only be spotted in the early mornings or evenings on particularly calm days. Even rarer are the wild goats on Colonsay’s eastern shoreline, said to be descendants of those carried on a Spanish Armada vessel shipwrecked on the island.
For the twitchers among us, I also learned that Colonsay is home to the rare corncrake, a bird with a distinctive rasping call that has become increasingly rare across the UK. Though I didn’t manage to spot one, locals say you can often hear its unmistakable call coming from the undergrowth. Other birds include golden eagles and hen harriers.
What’s more, the sky is an inky black, with no light pollution to dim the view. Countless stars and galaxies sparkle overhead, and I was lucky enough to witness the Northern Lights dancing in the sky during one visit in early autumn.
Meanwhile, Colonsay House Gardens is open to the public in summer, featuring sub-tropical plants that thrive thanks to the island’s mild climate.
The island has balmy temperatures thanks to the Gulf Stream (Image: Sophie Law)
But it’s not just the beaches and scenery that draw people to the island — it’s the locals who truly bring it to life. From the friendly faces serving you in the shop and café to the smiles and waves from everyone you pass, it’s rare not to encounter a resident who isn’t up for a chat.
With a strong sense of community, the locals keep the island running like a well-oiled machine. It’s not unusual to be served by someone in the local shop one moment, only to see them donning a high-vis jacket and waving you onto the ferry the next.
What’s more, the island regularly hosts book, food, and folk music festivals, along with pub quizzes, a weekly football game (Colonsay vs. Rest of the World), clay pigeon shoots, golf competitions, and lively ceilidh dances.
The tourist information board humorously notes: “Whenever you are here, there is likely to be something going on—even if it is only the sheep-shearing competition.”
If you’re thinking about staying, there’s no shortage of accommodation, with over 40 self-catered cottages available to rent, as well as rooms at the Colonsay Hotel and a backpackers’ lodge. Wild camping is also welcome; however, campervans are not permitted.