Uruguay’s Bodega Garzón, which we’re seeing more of in B.C. liquor stores, is LEED-certified and strongly committed to sustainable and green farming practices
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The internet and travel are bringing more grapes to the wine game as fast as enthusiasts have encountered them in situ as they travel the world for work and pleasure — or, simply, in better wine shops.
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I’m not talking about Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling but rather Viognier, Grüner Veltliner and Grenache sitting quietly outside the mainstream, waiting for their moment along with the likes of today’s topic, Uruguayan Albariño and Tannat.
Mention Tannat to seasoned wine drinkers and some think southwest France, where, historically, a highly tannic version is grown in Madiran. Others think Uruguay, where the grape is part of the national heritage. The original Tannat material came to Uruguay from France in the late 19th century and has been grown more or less uninterrupted for some 130 years. It’s a grape that has adapted well to the Canelones Department of flatlands in clay soils, although, ironically, the heavy soils have enhanced its innate rich structure and tannins, leaving it not unlike the Madiran versions.
Some years ago, I came across an elegant, head-turning style of Tannat at a European trade show labelled Bodega Garzón. It, too, was from Uruguay. The Garzón project was put together by a team of people led by wealthy Argentine oil man Alejandro Bulgheroni, his longtime friend Carlos Pulenta, rich in Argentine wine knowledge and noted consulting Italian winemaker and viticulturist Alberto Antonini. Since that tasting, I have journeyed to Garzón twice to visit a winery project like no other.
The entire facility, including vineyards, winemaking and hospitality, is LEED-certified. It also strongly commits to sustainable, green farming practices and has an in-house bus company that transports employees in and out of nearby towns to comply with strict LEED regulations.
The wines are in the hands of Antonini, who laid out a 200-hectare vineyard in 1,000 individual blocks, about 18 kilometres from the cold Atlantic Ocean. The vines spread far and wide across stony hillsides and, between the blocks, you will find extensive swaths of biodiversity, including olive groves, giving the property a bit of a mixed-farming, Tuscan look.
The winery is a vast expanse of concrete and large wooden foudres all underground, which is an obvious clue as to why these wines are so elegant. The Tannat and, surprisingly, the Albariño grapes are putting Garzón on the world wine map. Antonini opted to bring in the French Tannat clones from Madiran, rather than using those available locally, and early results suggest planting them on the stony hillsides was the right decision. He also focused on Albariño, citing the site’s similarity with Galicia, the home of Spain’s Albarino vines, within a few kilometres of the cold Atlantic.
Antonini says, “What’s so special here is the obvious quality from the soil that gives the wine energy. We are managing the soils differently, trying hard to develop a deep root system to give the vines access to gourmet food, not the fast food on the surface.”
Also, “The breeze off the Atlantic is cleaner and cooler than the other areas of wine production in Uruguay.”
Antonini gets plenty of help from on-site winemaker Germán Bruzzone, whose grandfather founded Bodega Bruzzone in 1945 in Canelones, Uruguay, and agronomist Eduardo Felix, viticulturalist, who has worked at several Uruguayan wineries. Both men bring what Antonini calls, “Valuable intelligence, rich with local knowledge; otherwise, we wouldn’t know what we had.”
It has taken a decade for these wines to arrive in B.C. in numbers, but we are seeing more and more labels arrive recently — some in B.C. Liquor Stores, others in private wine shops, and others in both.
Garzón Albariño Reserva 2023, Garzón, Maldonado, San José, Uruguay
$24.95 I 91/100
UPC: 7730951080112
Albariño has been the Garzón flagship white since the first year it was released. Seven years later, it is the No. 1 selling white wine in Uruguay. They recently dropped the regular label in favour of farming 42 hectares destined for the Reserva program. Everyone involved in the project thinks 2023 is the best release of the Garzón Albariño, crammed full of peach and citrus pith, with a full stony mineral finish. Lip-smacking and lively, this was made for B.C. seafood.
Garzón Tannat Reserva 2022, Garzón, Maldonado, San José, Uruguay
$22.99 I 90/100
UPC: 7730951080280
The proximity to the cold Atlantic Ocean helps promote bright red fruit characters that offset the apparent black fruit. Picked when the seeds are fully lignified but fresh, Garzón has unveiled the black plums over blackcurrants, and black raspberries over blackberries. The tannin and the texture are beautifully balanced. No chemicals are used here, no over-extraction, and no egos — only untoasted, large French vats are used for the fermentation. The aging is done in concrete for six months. Antonini is among the world’s most intelligent and sensitive wine consultants, and his work at Garzón on wines like this only enhances his reputation.
Garzón Cabernet de Corte 2020, Garzón, Maldonado, San José, Uruguay
$22.99 I 89/100
UPC: 7730951081317
Corte translates to blend, which in this case, it is 80 per cent Cabernet Franc, 10 per cent Tannat, 5 per cent Merlot and 5 per cent Marselan. The secret to this wine is the styling. They preach elegance at Garzón, so expect an inviting mix of red and black fruit that opens with violets and wet stone, followed by raspberries, blackberries and green pepper, kissed with dark chocolate. There is no oak here, just pure terroir. We like this with roasted pork ribs on fennel and leeks or pappardelle with a wild mushroom ragu.
Garzón Single Vineyard Tannat 2022, Garzón, Maldonado, San José, Uruguay
$43-$63, private wine shops only I 92/100
UPC: 7730951080150
This SV Tannat comes off one of the cooler Garzón blocks, boasting steep slopes, thin soils and excellent drainage. It is aged 12-18 months on lees in French oak barrels and casks, and like the entire Garzón lineup, the SV Tannat opens with graphite and minerals mixed with rich black fruit. The tannins are dense, sweet, rich and balanced; the alcohol is 14.5 per cent. You can drink this most sophisticated grape version, but there is no rush. The structure and styling suggest this wine is easily an eight-to-10-year proposition and likely beyond.
Garzón Marselan Reserva 2022, Garzón, Maldonado, San José, Uruguay
$24-$26, private wine shops only I 88/100 I
UPC: 7730951081324
This Marselan is a unique cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. First bred in 1961, Marselan is a wine of promise, with its low-yielding nature and excellent disease resistance to botrytis, powdery mildew, coulure and mites. The 2022 vintage, with its alluring wild blackberry, black cherry and black plum, exudes bright freshness and youthful tannins and is a testament to its potential. Like its 2020 counterpart, it carries a hint of minty eucalyptus that weaves through the finish. While it retains a touch of rusticity, it’s on the brink of mainstream appeal, best enjoyed with roasted meats or winter vegetable casseroles.
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• The U.S. Department of the Treasury’s Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) has proposed new regulations for alcoholic drinks. The proposed “Alcohol Facts” label mandates new disclosures on alcohol and nutritional content, including the percentage of alcohol by volume, alcohol content in fluid ounces, calories, carbohydrates, fat and protein on labels for wines, distilled spirits and malt beverages and beers. It also proposed a rule requiring listing major food allergens on labels of alcoholic drinks. Expect this to happen in Canada in the near future.
B.C. wine of the week
Monte Creek Living Land Series Cabernet Franc 2022, Okanagan Valley, B.C.
$26.99 I 88/100
UPC: 775412910017
2022 was a good year in B.C., with generous crop sizes. This cab franc is a 90/10 mix of Osoyoos Cabernet Franc and Merlot that pitches a vibrant, slightly acidic palate of cherries, brown spices and savoury sagebrush notes (the Garrigue of the south Okanagan). Plums, tobacco and tart black cherries fill an edgy palate with firm acidity and plenty of spice. The wine was barrel-aged in French oak for 15 months but is only opening now. It is best served with a T-bone steak or a mushroom pie.
Value wine of the week
Escorihuela Gascón 1884 Finca E. G. Malbec 2021, Mendoza, Argentina
$19.99 I 88/100
UPC: 7790415130234
Escorihuela Gascón has been exploring its terroir since 1884 and it continues today. The entry-level Malbec is made from select parcels that provide a soft, friendly, welcoming note for wine drinkers. The Agrelo area is a site favoured by catabatic winds that push out the warm air every evening, leaving the vineyard and the grapes fresh. Sixty per cent was aged in French and American oak for eight months. The fruit is juicy and rich in plum and blueberry flavours with soft tannins. It is reasonably priced and ready to drink.