There is a different side of the city — and the surrounding area — that’s well worth exploring
Maybe it was when the shooting stars started drifting across the pitch-black sky in a seemingly endless stream.
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Or maybe it was when the small herd of wild desert deer ventured into the compound to see what the fuss was all about.
But it likely truly hit me when I laid my head down in a tent surrounded by sand dunes and a handful of palm trees and fell asleep in a moment of extreme quiet. This wasn’t the Dubai I’ve heard about, so much that it became a bucket-list destination.
From driving slowly through the desert aboard a legendary Land Rover Defender of 1950s vintage, to sipping tea while watching a falconry demonstration at sunset, to riding a camel, to watching a Bedouin yowlah gun dance, to eating a traditional meal (including stewed camel meat) before bedding down in one of the encampment’s stone dwellings or tents, the entire experience blew me away. It truly was one of the most unforgettable nights of my life.
But to be completely honest, that was similar to how I felt about my entire five-day stay in Dubai, a city whose well-deserved reputation is dominated by bright lights, bling, the Burj Khalifa and Bugattis.
Outdoor adventure, culture and sustainability are all the flipside of what usually draws tourists — and expats, for that matter — to this part of the United Arab Emirates.
A day after arriving in Dubai aboard an Emirates Airbus A380 (more on that later), we ventured 135 km into the countryside to Hatta, a ruggedly beautiful and mountainous part of the country just a few kilometres from Oman that is being developed by the ruler of Dubai, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, as a tourist destination.
The village, in the heart of the Hajar Mountains, also boasts a 19th-century fort, two watchtowers that offer panoramic views, and the falaj system, an underground irrigation system carved out of the rock to provide water to the locals. Wading 600 metres into a tunnel carved out of the mountain was surreal and a bit spooky but I wouldn’t have missed the opportunity.
A neat boat ride on an abra ferry across Dubai Creek (yeah, it’s a river) ended at the entrance to the souks, or markets, in the old part of the city. The marketplace, which is an odd mix of sounds, sights and smells, is broken up into different areas where gold, perfume, textiles and spices are sold. Sure, it’s mostly a tourist attraction these days but the wares on display will blow you away.
Bobbing on the calm sea left a lasting impression, with a view of the Dubai skyline and Jumeirah Bay Island from the water that will forever be burned into my mind’s eye.
It was a perfect way to end a trip to a magical destination like Dubai.
WHERE TO STAY
The spectacular views, day or night, of Burj Khalifa from Look Up rooftop bar (and many of the rooms), are an added bonus of staying at La Ville.
WHERE TO EAT
If sustainability and a farm-to-table concept is high on your list of requirements for eating at a restaurant, Teible, located in the Jameel Arts Centre, is a perfect choice. The menu is a bit eclectic but all the ingredients are locally sourced — the place even has its own garden! — and very little ever goes to waste.
EXCEPTIONAL EMIRATES EXPERIENCE
Emirates is consistently among the top-rated airlines in the world, according to travellers who vote for such things.
If you’re lucky enough to get a business-class ticket aboard one of the carrier’s 116 Airbus A380 aircraft, as I did for my roughly 14-hour flight to and from Dubai International Airport, you’ll quickly find out why. And the exceptional service begins before you even get to the airport, with a relaxing limo ride provided as part of your business or first-class ticket.
You’ll also get access to lounges in both airports — Air Canada’s Maple Leafs lounge at Pearson in Toronto and the massive Emirates Business Class Lounge in Dubai, where food and drinks are complimentary, you can get concierge duty-free shopping and even board the plane instead of venturing to the gate — and exclusive check-in desks at both ends of your journey. You can even check in online 48 hours before your flight is scheduled to leave, if you’re so inclined, and you’ll get fast-tracked through customs once you reach Dubai.
Aboard one of Emirates’ double-decker A380 planes, your private pod, with a seat that converts to a bed complete with mattress, is where the airline’s amenities shine through. At your seat on the upper level of the plane, which is all first and business-class, you’ll find an exclusive Bulgari amenity kit, a pair of incredibly comfortable pyjamas, over-the-ear headphones for your on-demand entertainment and an actual menu (and wine list!) with gourmet meals (which can be pre-ordered).
Being able to lie down and catch some ZZZs is crucial on a flight of that length and I was able to sleep during both legs of the journey, including a seven-hour stretch on the way home.
The piece de resistance, though, is the stand-up, U-shaped bar at the rear of the plane. Emirates’ Onboard Lounge is a mini version of a bar — at 40,000 feet, of course — and a great gathering place where you can have a glass of fine wine or a cocktail and really unwind.
Attention to detail is a big part of the service of the multinational cabin crew, which usually includes people from more than a dozen countries. Heather, from Birmingham in the U.K., did a fantastic job on my flight to Dubai while I received visits from Alex, the cabin purser, and Omar, the cabin supervisor, to check on my comfort during the trip back to Toronto.
It was a nice touch on what turned out to be one of my most memorable flights.