Le Boulevardier and Bar George are dependably impeccable and flavour-forward
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By Adam Waxman
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Le Boulevardier
Tonight, we dine at the esteemed French brasserie-inspired Le Boulevardier within the hotel. We enter a large, airy restaurant that is at once vintage and contemporary, and are warmly attended to. The menu seems to have conquered the difficult task of making a diverse hotel clientele totally intrigued by the choices offered.
The flavours of Quebec are richly pronounced on this menu and deftly handled by a kitchen with a velvet touch. There is an innovative spirit to infuse a global palate of ingredients for unique accent, like the filet mignon tartare with shiitake and gochujang, or the lobster tortellini with squid ink, parmesan espuma and tobiko. Every dish that passes by looks gorgeous, artful, immaculate. We begin with a rabbit pie with pistachios and foie gras that is so delectable and decoratively presented and pairs beautifully with a glass of rosé. It sings of a talented kitchen.
An 8oz beef tenderloin is grilled to the perfect à point. Tender as a buttery pillow with the succulence we hope for in a tenderloin, its robust beefy flavour is balanced by a delicately crisped pan-seared foie gras and a stack of creamy truffled dauphinois gratin. We pair this with a vibrant, luscious Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers of shiraz from the Rhone Valley, France.
The Guinea fowl is a rich and flavourful fillet complimented by crisped-up rendered fat delicately set on top that makes a sumptuous contrast of textures. This dish has such a dynamic range of flavours and textures from the eggplant confit to the blueberry jelly, and the confluence of soft confit thigh wrapped within the crunch of the cromesquis. We pair this with a Burgundian Pinot Noir, Bourgogne, Les Forets, L’oeuvre de Perraud.
Our dessert finale matches the bold flavours we’ve enjoyed thus far. Hazelnut and maple moelleux, served with mushroom ice cream and coureur des bois whisky caramel is a whimsical homage to Canada and an unexpected culinary marriage of earthy sweetness.
The menus are seasonal, but the elegant ambience, service and hospitality remain impeccably congenial.
Bar George
Our waiter shares with us that the gnocchi with black truffles is a popular choice, but we select a refreshing Burrata with a savoury butternut squash purée. Crunchy hazelnuts and sunchoke chips are a welcome contrast to the creamy burrata. This is a sumptuous dish that we enjoy scooping up with warm fresh-from-the-oven bread. The mushroom soup is a soothing velvety ladling of nourishment. A cluster of shimeji and maitake mushrooms in the centre adds to the umami of this earthy bowl.
A very generous portion of meaty lobster claws are nestled with sea asparagus in the rich and creamy Lobster Risotto. A circling of mint oil and sprinkling of micro-coriander and splash of lime add a spring freshness and subtle citric essence. This pairs beautifully with a Baudry Dutour Le Petit Lieu-Dit Sauvignon Blanc.
Bar George is renowned for its Beef Wellington, and that is something we will not pass up. The filet mignon is tender as can be, wrapped in flaky pastry dough and enlivened with mushroom duxelles and a layer of prosciutto, it would make Gordon Ramsey blush. Accompanied by a lush scoop of sweet corn purée, a sweet potato puck adorned with baby Brussels sprouts, and a savory green peppercorn sauce. Our waiter recommends pairing with a J. Vidal-Fleury Cotes du Rhone. Combined, this is a symphony of textures and robust juicy and earthy flavours that make our taste buds dance.
Our dessert is a pear poached with chai spices, set on hazelnut shortbread, accented with pear and blackcurrant gel and accompanied by a creamy scoop of chai ice cream.
While the cuisine is British fare, there is distinct Québécois style that imbues each dish with elegance. The warmth of service maintains this storied room and immediately conveys to us the enduring history and opulence that is its acclaimed tradition.