Choose a calm, cultured but exhilarating and adventurous getaway
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Looking for a calm, cultured but exhilarating and adventurous getaway to an often overlooked destination in Mexico for your next vacation?
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With apologies to the late, great John Lennon, all I am saying is why not give peace a chance?
Or, perhaps more accurately in this case, La Paz, the Mexican state of Baja California Sur’s shimmering capital city and a destination that is often an afterthought for tourists. The city’s name translates from Spanish to English as “peace,” in case you were wondering.
The peninsula’s party capital, legendary Cabo San Lucas, or nearby San Jose del Cabo usually attract most of the tourism pesos but La Paz, the largest city in Baja California Sur, is the underappreciated jewel of the state.
Listen, I’ve got nothing against either of those towns at the southern tip of the peninsula but at my age and inclination, an all-inclusive experience isn’t high on my list of must-dos. And don’t get me wrong, you can still have a great time in La Paz.
La Paz, which has reportedly denied all-inclusive resorts from setting up shop in the city, has a decidedly more sophisticated feel, with more adventurous things — bucket list stuff, folks — to occupy your time than sitting by the pool sipping margaritas (no judging!), although there is indeed a time and place for that.
If snorkelling with sea lions, a truly spectacular experience, in the Sea of Cortez doesn’t move your needle, stop reading. How about immersing yourself in the region’s pearl industry, which dates back to the Spanish colonization? Or lunching on a remote Espiritu Santo Island beach miles from civilization, with only the stingrays and birds to keep you company?
We both used the same word — surreal — to describe how it felt to have friendly young sea lions darting all around us as we floated just metres from their rocky home of Los Islotes. Being that close to the magnificent animals, to say nothing of the colourful tropical fish that surrounded us the entire time, left us both speechless. It truly was a once-in-a-lifetime, unforgettable encounter.
On the trip back to La Paz, we stopped for lunch at a picturesque cove, where we had the chance to explore the crystal clear waters atop a paddleboard and walk the pristine beach. The full day experience, which ended at the beach in front of our hotel, was perfect.
The rest of the day we casually meandered through La Paz, taking in the sights and sounds of a city that quickly grew on both of us. The architecture up the hill from the malecon, like the historic Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Paz and the Museum of Art, with its artistic rows of light poles along the exterior, were well worth taking some time to see.
But the family-friendly malecon, or coastal boardwalk, that runs for 5 km beside the beach in central La Paz, is the heart of the city and a hub of activity, even early in the morning or late in the evening. Some of the city’s most popular eateries are just across the road, Paseo Alvaro Obregon, from the malecon, if you needed extra motivation to take a stroll.
On Sundays, a market takes over the Esplanada near the monument to Queen Elizabeth II (she visited in 1983 to learn about the pearl from La Paz that is embedded in her crown) and the viewing pier, offering local goods of all varieties. People-watching while strolling along the malecon is a popular activity.
Sculptures that represent important aspects of La Paz — a mermaid surrounded by dolphins, late undersea explorer Jacques Cousteau, hammerhead sharks rising from the depths, whales and other nautical themes, along with the obligatory LA PAZ sign — breathe life into the boardwalk and nearby beach, which transforms into an outdoor gym during the cooler morning and evening hours.
Granted, La Paz is a little further afield for Torontonians than a popular Mexican tourist stop like Cancun, another party/beach destination. But it’s worth a couple more hours of flying time if you’re looking to avoid the all-inclusive scene and really explore everything the La Paz region has to offer. You won’t be disappointed.
WHERE TO EAT: Our first night we popped into Hambrusia, just a few steps from our hotel, for a quick bite before starting our walking tour, which included another stop, this time at Patio Dominguez Cantina, a block from the malecon. Both offered authentic Mexican fare.
We also dined at Quemadero, a resto a block from the hotel that creates a gastronomic experience with fire and provides an intimate, romantic atmosphere, and Nemi, a fine-dining eatery that offers a frequently changing tasting menu that pairs Chef Alejandro Villagomez’s creations with fine wines, many from Mexico. When we visited, Nemi, which opened in late 2019, was waiting to hear if it had been awarded a coveted Michelin star.
WHERE TO STAY: We spent three nights at the 32-room, boutique Baja Club Hotel, a restored colonial-style villa with a newly built four-storey extension, across the road from the always-popular malecon (the coastal boardwalk) and the beach, within walking distance of the area’s many restaurants and bars in the historic centre of the city. The location was perfect and combined with the amenities, which included a relaxing courtyard, pool, spa and a rooftop bar that’s ideal for watching sunsets.
THE MAGIC OF TODOS SANTOS
If you’re already in the area, I’d highly recommend spending a couple of days in Todos Santos, a “Magical Town” located on the west coast of Baja California Sur and just an hour’s drive from San Jose del Cabo International Airport.
Todos Santos, a town of just over 7,000 people in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna mountains, is one of 177 towns across the country, and one of just three in the state, to earn “magical” status from the Mexican government, status that makes it worth exploring.
And, wow, is Todos Santos, which is split by a lush, green oasis and surrounded by desert-like landscape, worth exploring by foot.
It’s an easy walk through the town centre, despite the ever-present heat, with stops at the Iglesia Mision Todos Santos Catholic church and the Centro Cultural highly recommended. If you time it right, there will be a festival on in the town — we were there for the start of the festival celebrating the founding of the town in October, with colourful markets and live music in the area around the plaza — and it really adds to the ambience.
We only had a few hours to wander through the former mission town, which was founded in 1723, but it stood out as a highlight for both of us. It’s definitely got a bohemian, artsy vibe but the combination of shopping, galleries, restaurants, boutique hotels (hey, Eagles fans, you can stay at the Hotel California … and you can even leave) and restored colonial architecture is unmatched in the area.
WHERE TO EAT: We had an amazing lunch at Oystera, a fantastic and highly rated oyster bar — the spiced-up grilled oysters are to die for — and seafood restaurant on Todos Santos’ main drag near the aforementioned Hotel California. It’s a popular spot with the locals so it’s a good idea to make a reservation.
HOW TO GET THERE
Air Canada offers nonstop flights from Toronto (and a handful of other Canadian cities, depending on the day) to San Jose del Cabo International Airport but other options like United Airlines are also available if you don’t mind connecting.
Getting to La Paz, a roughly two-hour drive through terrain that could have been used as the backdrop for a Sergio Leone spaghetti western from Los Cabos airport, or Todos Santos will require a rental car or use of a car service.