Wine Guy: Cold weather calls for cranking up the roasted malts

Times like these call for cranking up the roasted malts. Here are a few beers to help keep the tastebuds cosy.

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When it comes to brews, dark times call for dark beers. And no, there’s no moral nor philosophical allusions being attempted here. With the clocks rolled back and December fast approaching, it’s getting darker earlier — and for more hours of the day. Not to mention colder. Yes, times like these call for cranking up the roasted malts. Here are a few beers to help keep the tastebuds cosy.

Wine Guy

The Grizzly Paw Brewing Co. Bighorn Nut Brown, Canmore

($14.29 for four 473mL cans, #326705) 

There’s no shortage of dark beers, and a mixed trio really only begins to scratch the depths. So apologies to dark lagers and Belgian Dubbels, they’re not the focus this week. But let’s hear it for nut brown ale, which can serve as a nice transition beer. New to local shelves is Canmore’s Grizzly Paw Brewing Co. Their Bighorn Nut Brown brings nice malty richness with nutty undertones, complemented by a hint of hop crispness. It’s bold overall, rich yet balanced, and makes a fine companion for blustery nights — ideally alongside tacos or a plate of poutine.

Bottom line: B+, Rich but snappy.

Wine Guy

Persephone Brewing Co. Nitro Mocha Porter, Gibsons

($13.49 for four 473mL cans, #462823)

Let’s hear it for the porters. First brewed in England and reputedly named after the beer’s popularity in slaking the thirst of market labourers (porters), porter beer owes its deep brown colour to judicious use of brown malts. It can also provide a fun foundation for other robust flavours, as shown in Persephone’s Nitro Mocha Porter, which incorporates Salt Spring Coffee and 70 per cent cocoa mass from Denman Island Chocolate. Big time coffee aromas intro a smooth entry, with coffee and cacao flavours abounding. It’s not heavy at all, with a rich mid-palate complemented by chocolate bitterness and a surprisingly refreshing finish. 

Bottom line: B, Like a malty cold brew.

Wine Guy

Longwood Brewery Stoutnik Russian Imperial Stout, Nanaimo

($4.09 for 473mL can , #126808)

This is about as dark as it gets, pouring a super dense, inky brown-black. Heady aromas of toasty malts and roasted barley kick things off and provide a hint of sweetness and a robust body. The richness is kept in check by a bounty of local hops before a lingering, sweetish and chocolatey kiss to finish. It’s big and bold — certainly meant to be a slow sipper at 7.5 per cent alcohol — yet enjoyably balanced. In short, it’s kind of the beer version of a full-length, stylish puffer jacket. Great sipped solo fireside, or with a hunk of aged cheddar and crusty bread.

Bottom line: B+, Super dark, super dense.


The Swirl: Dark Enough to see the Stars: Dark Beer Event

Speaking of dark beers, from Dec. 6-8 Vancouver’s Luppolo Brewing presents Dark Enough to see the Stars. Billed as a Dark Beer Event, the weekend features the launch of the brewery’s Dark Room Series of spirit-aged stouts and other barrel-aged brews. At least eight dark beers will be on offer, including several one-off kegs, and of course there will be pizza and festive food features from Local Pizzaiolo. For complete details follow @luppolo_brewing.

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