This corner of the UK is nowhere near as famous as other popular tourist spots — it should be (Image: Getty Images)
If someone asked you to think of the most famous tourist destinations in the UK, which places would spring to mind first? The Lake District or Cotswolds, perhaps. Or you might think first of Cornwall, Devon, the Highlands of Scotland or the Peak District.
One place you probably didn’t immediately think of, but will now, is the place I grew up and would rank alongside any of those named above. Most people who aren’t from Carmarthenshire will probably only see it as they’re passing through on their way west to Pembrokeshire’s coast and world class beaches.
But Carmarthenshire has vast sandy beaches to match Pembrokeshire and Cornwall, idyllic towns and villages to match the Cotswolds, mountains to match the Peak District, and castles to match anywhere in Britain. What’s more, there are superb places to eat and stay when you visit. Here are my highlights of Carmarthenshire, places you should definitely visit.
Beaches
Cefn Sidan Sands is an extraordinary eight-mile long beach with plenty of room to swim, sunbathe and walk even on the busiest sunny days. It was the first in Wales to get a Blue Flag for its water quality, . You’ll find it adjoining the equally vast Pembrey Country Park, where there are woodlands, playgrounds, cycle tracks and even a dry ski slope – enough to keep families entertained for days on end. And if you do plan on staying there days, there’s a campsite with a cafe on site so you can do just that.
At Cefn Sidan Sands, the long sandy beach is between the sea and large dunes (Image: Getty Images)
Llansteffan will feature in this article more than once. Its huge beach is rarely busy and there may well be days you have it to yourself. Count yourself lucky if you do – it means you know about one of Wales’ best hidden gems. If the tide is out, you’ll have acres of sand to walk on (but keep an eye on the returning tide), overlooked by an impressive medieval castle. The village of Llansteffan is delightful too.
Pendine Sands is another huge beach which has attracted visitors for generations. Its unique selling point is that it is still possible to drive a car on the beach and it is therefore the scene of several world-breaking land speed attempts. There has been significant regeneration in recent years, with a traffic-free 500-metre promenade overlooking the beach.
Towns and villages
Perched above the Tywi river rolling quietly below, Llandeilo mixes country chic and boutique independent shops with being at the heart of the countryside and the farming community. It’s not quite one road in and one road out, but it can feel like it when you’re crossing the imposing stone bridge that leads up to the row of colourful stone cottages which welcome you into the town. Further into the town centre you’ll find food and clothes shops and art galleries down narrow streets.
The river Tywi tumbles over rocks near Rhandirmwyn (Image: TomGough/Flickr)
A few miles away from Llandeilo you’ll find Llandovery. This farming and market town is a gateway to the stunning Brecon Beacons and sits on the Heart of Wales railway line which has been described as one of the world’s best train journeys. The tiny, remote village of Rhandirmwyn is almost hidden among Carmarthenshire’s hills and valleys. Despite its size, Rhandirmwyn has two pubs and plenty of cottages, barns and BandBs to spend the night or weekend.
The huge beach at Llansteffan with the castle above it (Image: Cadw/Welsh Government)
Castles
Many of the UK’s castles now sit surrounded by the towns that have grown up around them. But Carmarthenshire’s castles remain almost as remote today as they did 800 years ago. The most impressive is Carreg Cennen, which is built on a rocky crag in the middle of the countryside. From its ruins you can see for miles around and one side is built into a sheer rock face with a huge drop below. From the castle itself, a passageway leads down to a secret cave which you can walk down – but be warned, it’s scary!
Carreg Cennen (Image: leighcol/Getty Images)
Other castles well worth a visit in the county are Dinefwr, on the outskirts of Llandeilo; Dryslwyn, a couple of miles further along the Tywi river; the hulking Kidwelly, between Carmarthen and Llanelli and, of course, the aforementioned Llansteffan.
Places to eat
Llansteffan is home to the Inn at the Sticks, which was recently named the best in Wales in The Good Food Guide’s Best Local Restaurants 2024. There is also a quaint tea shop and a chip shop, perfect for taking a tray of chips to eat on the beach. Deeper into the countryside you’ll find Y Polyn, a country pub/restaurant which has long had a reputation as one of the best places to eat in the whole of Wales. In Llandeilo, you should definitely try the ice cream and chocolate on sale at Heavenly.
Y Polyn (Image: Google)
Llandovery’s Market Square (Image: Getty Images)
Places to stay
You’ll find somewhere to suit your taste and budget in Carmarthenshire, whether it’s a high end resort or a campsite. At the intriguing town of Laugharne, famed for its Dylan Thomas links, you’ll find the Dylan Coastal Resort, a collection of luxury self-catering properties with hot tubs, a spa and restaurant . The Cawdor is a classy hotel in the centre of Llandeilo and Pods at Broadway are a collection of 10 cosy pods, some with hot tubs. You’ll find all manner of places to stay across the county, from shepherd huts and bell tents to cottages and BandBs.