Behind this Italian cream puff in Chelsea is a sweet love story

Geneviève Parent discovered the dreamy pastries — and the love of her life — in Rome.

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Roberto Pizza Romana

maritozzo
A closeup of lemon and white chocolate maritozzo at Roberto Pizza Romana in Old Chelsea.Photo by JULIE OLIVER /Postmedia

Open: Thursday to Sunday  9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Thursday to Sunday, closed Monday to Wednesday

Access: Steps to the front door


At a Michelin-starred restaurant in Rome during the summer of 2017, Geneviève Parent found herself completely smitten by her dinner.

So Parent thought, after Roberto Catervi, the chef, emerged from the kitchen. Perhaps quickly smitten himself, Catervi told Parent that he would be finished work in 30 minutes and then asked if they could drink the wine together.

“Then I was in love,” says Parent.

genevieve and roberto
Roberto Catervi is co-owner and chef at Roberto Pizza Romana in Old Chelsea, which opened in the fall of 2021. He runs it with his wife Genevieve Parent.Photo by JULIE OLIVER /Postmedia

Six months after they met, Parent succeeded in luring Catervi away from Italy. He was broke and had a lull in his work life, and Parent bought him a plane ticket so that he could visit her during the dead of an Ottawa-area winter, -28C nights be damned.

“I knew there was going to be good food and other good things in life,” Parent says.

What are maritozzi? Had you been vacationing with Parent seven years ago, you too would have swooned over those incredibly light brioche buns that hide flavoured whipped cream centres. They’re on every street corner in Rome, Parent says.

At Roberto Pizza Romana, the maritozzi ($4.50 for one) come in three flavours — vanilla, chocolate and lemon and white chocolate. They are all sublime, not too sweet and just a wee bit tangy due to the sourdough in the airy brioches.

maritozzi
Maritozzi, a classic Roman pastry, come in chocolate vanilla and lemon and white chocolate flavours atRoberto Pizza Romana in Old Chelsea.Photo by JULIE OLIVER /Postmedia

Fittingly, “marito” means “husband” in Italian, and folklore says that maritozzi, which supposedly date back to medieval days, were once used to hide engagement rings during marriage proposals.

Maritozzi — the plural of maritozzo, should you be ordering just one — debuted at Roberto Pizza Romana not long after it opened. Parent was surprised when I told her that while she may have brought maritozzi, not to mention its baker, to the Ottawa area, a few maritozzi can now be found elsewhere in town. However, no matter how tasty any other maritozzi might be, none would have such a sweet romance as its back story.


Other treats of the week:


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