As pretty as Capri but much quieter. Panarea Island off the coast of Sicily. (Image: Getty)
Forget Capri with its hoards of tourists clamouring for space on the tiny beach or squished up in the furnicular railways to reach the over-priced designer shops, there is a little undiscovered Italian island that is just as pretty but without the summer crowds.
Flanked by the glittering waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Panarea is a part of the volcanic island chain perched off the northern tip of Sicily.
The second smallest of the eight Aeolians, Panarea is definitelty the most fashionable, if not the most famous, alongside larger siblings Lipari and Salina.
At just three kilometres long, the traditional white limestone homes are linked by winding pedestrian only streets, just like Cpari, and layers of brightly coloured bougainvillea, just like Capri!
Only 280 permanent residents call Panarea home, but come summer those few in the know, including a number of celebrities and the lavish jet set descend on the turquoise waters and surprising number of bars and eateries tucked around the small port and laneways.
The famous people to have visited Panarea include Prince Laurent of Belgium, Russian oligarch Roman Abramovich, and singers Beyonce and Jay Z. The island is also known for being a stop-off for luxury yachts.
Getting to the island isn’t straightforward because you can’t fly direct. From the UK, you fly to the mainland of Sicily, either to the capital city of Palermo or Catania on the east coast. EasyJet, Jet2, British Airways, and Ryanair all fly to Sicily from UK airports.
From there, grab a train or hire a car to the port of your choice (Milazzo is often easiest). Jump aboard one of the public ferries run by the ever-reliable Liberty Lines, which offers direct routes to Panarea or the chance to hop between a few of the Aeolian Islands.
However, transport on the island itself is a lot more limited. There are no cars in Panarea, which is part of its joy and peacefulness. Instead be prepared to hike your way up and down the narrow laneways, or take one of the designated golf cart taxis which whizz around the island ferrying tourists and their luggage.
Many wealthy Italians choose to hire yachts and sail around the island, and you can hire a boat for the day to explore the stunning coastline. If you want to stay on the island itself, there are a few family-run hotels, Airbnbs, and villas for hire.
Travel and lifestyle site Delicious has explored Panarea’s restaurants. They write: “Despite a shortage of population, a reliable number of visitors means that Panarea isn’t lacking when it comes to eating options.
“A cluster of restaurants, more upmarket than not, neighbour the port – rooftop venues where seafood-heaped pastas form the main attraction. Da Francesco and Da Adelina are two of the most popular options. But don’t miss out on a visit to Trattoria Da Paolino, slightly back from town.
“While the dated decor may pale in comparison to the swanky offerings in the harbour, the view and the food stands are head and shoulders above at this traditional trattoria. Gaze out onto the surrounding sea, taking in the volcanic silhouettes in the distance, while you down bowls of fresh mussels dowsed in lemon and oil or handmade casarecce, swirled with anchovies and pistachio.”
The seascape at Panarea Island (Image: Getty)
And if nightlife is your thing then Delicious recommend Raya described as “most famous for its aperitivo hour, which takes place daily at ‘dusk’, which is anywhere from 6–9pm.
“Sip on a spritz or negroni, or really whatever takes your fancy, at the bar’s adored roof terrace with unrivalled views out onto the water and surrounding Aeolian Islands. Cocktails are served alongside a generous portion of (complimentary) aperitivo snacks – layered piles of small arancini, cheese, olives and nuts.
“During its busiest months of the year – typically the Italian summer break of August and September – Raya’s pace quickens at night, turning into a nightclub where dancing is welcomed into the wee hours.”
Panarea has already gained a cult status amongst Milanese fashionistas like Armani and European royalty like Prince Laurent of Belgium. Russian oligarchs like Abramovic go there and more recently American celebrities like Beyonce and Jay Z, have visited too. So who needs Capri? Just don’t tell everyone!