Crop losses from wildfires and extreme weather means B.C. wineries have either replanted, folded or started importing grapes
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One of the underlying themes of the recent Vancouver International Wine Festival was how B.C. wineries are coping with a 50 per cent loss of their 2023 crop and a 95 per cent loss of the 2024 crop.
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Those with deep pockets and inventories have chosen to replant where needed and wait three to five years to return to full production. Those fed up with the challenges of wildfires, smoke damage, heat domes, drought, atmospheric rivers and provincial roadblocks preventing access to the bulk of Canadian markets have left or are planning to leave the business.
Fortunately, neither of those two groups represents a significant number. Most small, land-based wineries have effectively lobbied the B.C. government for regulatory relief to use non-B.C. grapes to make wines and remain in business. It’s hard to argue with any other outcome, given that jobs and family livelihoods are in jeopardy through no fault of their own.
Some media and producers (but not all) are concerned about the range of words and terms that will be used to describe the non-B.C. wines. Especially important is where those words appear on the label and where those bottles will appear on the shelves in retail stores. It is hard to believe that, nearly a year down the road, these issues still persist. I wish I could say the “replacement” wines will be easy to identify but, unfortunately, you can expect several versions of transparency, from see-through to very blurry terminology on labels.
A year ago, when the industry was lobbying for regulatory relief to allow land-based wineries to use non-B.C. grapes, industry members widely committed to disclosing the use of non-B.C. grapes on the front label. Unfortunately, as things have evolved, it appears the commitment to truth and transparency will not be fulfilled. With no regulations for such an emergency and so many moving parts, getting dozens of producers to agree to any new rules wasn’t possible.
For most consumers and producers, it is not an issue. When it comes to reading labels or instructions, consumers seldom do, and we know that wineries, given any opportunity to further their brand, will do what it takes to do that within reason. What is troubling is wine is all about provenance, and leaving that to the back label is disappointing.
Wine Growers British Columbia (WGBC) is championing the phrase “Crafted in B.C.,” even though there are no B.C. grapes in the wine. Blurry provenance aside, it is a term that, at best, reminds me of beer and outdoor craft fairs. In most cases, the most relevant details — “made with non-B.C. grapes” — will be on the back label, while the front label will look a lot like the winery’s regular labels used for VQA wines.
The best front label I have seen was on a 2024 Poplar Grove Pinot Gris on what they call their Cascadian Label (a grey label that looks completely different from their B.C. labels, kudos for that, that reads “Washington Grown; B.C. Made”). The birth of these non-B.C. wines has been a miracle and will likely enrich our winemakers’ experience in the long run. It has allowed them to work with different fruits from foreign regions to fill the gap in their cellars. Even more importantly, it enables them to keep their employees and bankers happy while stopping the brain drain of our top people.
The bottom line is that many of our highly experienced winemakers have been tasked with working with new grapes from several West Coast states on short notice, and it’s going to be interesting, to say the least, to see what they have managed to come up with, no matter how it’s labelled.
This week’s weekend picks are all B.C. and priced as low as we dare to go to find value.
Weekend Wine Picks
Grow Wild Ravishing Rosé, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
$15.99 I 89/100
UPC: 776545600776
This Okanagan Valley VQA pink is a dry rosé combining Merlot, Syrah and Pinot Noir. It brims with fresh pink grapefruit, watermelon and citrus, and finishes with a touch of earth. Think tapas and sunshine on the deck.
Petrichor Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
$18.99 I 88/100
UPC: 776545600905
Petrichor is meant to embody the terroir of the southern Okanagan Valley. From estate vineyards, this Sauvignon Blanc is a sleek and steely affair, with lemon grass, crunchy Anjou pear, Asian pear and a light dusting of spice. It’s a perfect style for West Coast shellfish.
Red Rooster Cabernet Merlot 2019, British Columbia, Canada
$19.99 I 88/100
UPC: 058976502677
The Red Rooster Cabernet Merlot is a soft, easy-sipping red blend with silky textures. It’s aged in a 50/50 stainless steel and oak mix, leaving it fresh but with tempered edges. The plummy, black currant fruit persists through the finish, where black tea and light pepper notes clean up. It is ready to drink and would be a perfect wine for Spaghetti Bolognese or beef tacos.
Frind Estate Big Red 2021, British Columbia, Canada
$21.99 I 88/100
UPC: 626990415299
Behold a B.C. red that is fun to drink, well-made and affordable. I love complex wines but there are days, many more than you think, when what’s needed is a well-made wine with soft tannins, florals, ripe red plums and a dash of dried spice. Merlot dominates the 62/29/4/3/2 Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah/Grenache that spends a year in French and American oak barrels. Beef tacos, hamburgers, meaty pizza and grilled winter vegetables would all be good pairings.
Mt. Boucherie Merlot 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
$24.99 I 89/100
UPC: 812289000370
Sourced from vineyards stretching from Okanagan Falls to Oliver to the Similkameen, this shows a spicy, plummy nose, black cherry compote and fresh thyme. The style is appealing yet juicy, framed by 15 per cent new wood. To that end, winemaker Jeff Hundertmark has managed the tannins well, keeping them light and approachable so you can drink this now or hold them over the next two to three years.
Calendar items
Ever wonder who has the best of the best wine programs in B.C.?
The 2025 Wine Program Excellence Awards are part of the Trade Day celebrations at the annual Vancouver International Wine Festival.
The awards pay tribute to restaurants that have committed to producing an original and creative wine program, from the wine list up to its physical presentation and the culture of wine as expressed by the restaurant team. Participating restaurants received careful consideration for their wine program by a selection of Western Canadian judges working in the industry.
This year, judges included Kaela Augustine, Ian Casterton, Tom Doughty, DJ Kearney, Jonathan Lai and Chris Turyk.
The coveted Platinum award winners were L’Abattoir, AnnaLena, Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar, Botanist, Dachi, Elisa, Hawksworth Restaurant, Nightingale Restaurant and Yuwa Japanese Cuisine.
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Weekends at H Tasting Lounge pay tribute to Jules Verne’s Around the World in 80 Days, following in the footsteps of the legendary Phileas Fogg.
Experience faraway lands through the flavours of tea and an enchanting selection of sweet and savoury treats — where tradition takes a back seat to adventure. The globally inspired experience reimagines afternoon tea with bold and unexpected flavours.
Savour a delicate pastel macaron reminiscent of Paris in the Moulin Rouge era or indulge in the bold spices of a chocolate cardamom cake inspired by the vibrant streets of Bombay. Experience Italy with a decadent cacio e pepe risotto, be transported by Egyptian-inspired pastries or take a virtual trip to Hong Kong with a deconstructed pork spring roll.
A playful children’s menu will feature fluffy cotton candy, tasty scones, bite-sized tea sandwiches, irresistible s’mores pie and more.
B.C. Wine of the Week
Nk’Mip Cellars Dreamcatcher 2022, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
$26.99 I 89/100
UPC: 836909004302
The ’22 Dreamcatcher got a favourable high silver rating at the 2024 WineAlign National Wine Awards. It has a pleasing fruit salad harmony, pitching orchard fruits and grapefruit acidity, almonds and minerality. A summer sipper, if ever there was, and is ready to drink.
Value Wine of the Week
Wente Vineyards Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, Central Coast, California, United States
$19.99 I 88/100
UPC: 089636460006
The Southern Hills Cabernet is grown along the southern hills of the Central Coast, where the Wente family farms approximately 400 acres of cab vines that originated from Bordeaux cuttings and were planted by California wine pioneer Charles Wetmore in the 19th century. Look for an aromatic cedar, cassis nose with supple red fruit jam and spice. A button-down cooler version of Cabernet Sauvignon will have its audience with food and wine lovers. Beef tacos, burgers or grilled sausages are in play here.