Manchester’s Skof, the first independent venture from chef Tom Barnes, had only been open for nine months before being awarded the most prestigious accolade in the culinary world – the Michelin Star.
Nestled within an old textile building on Federation Street in the NOMA district, Skof presents an ‘unpretentious yet ambitious’ debut experience that welcomes both seasoned gourmands and newcomers alike – and the prices may surprise you.
A Roux scholar and Great British Menu veteran, Barnes has honed his culinary skills in prestigious kitchens alongside the world’s top chefs, spending many years at the helm of Simon Rogan’s award-winning Cumbrian restaurants, L’Enclume and Rogan and Co – steering the former to its third star, and the latter to its first, reports the Manchester Evening News.
The Barrow-in-Furness native has spent years preparing for the opening of his own restuarant, and the work has paid off. The converted Edwardian drapery warehouse is stunning, with its exposed brickwork, robust steel columns, and modern lights giving off a warming glow.
Tom Barnes can be viewed in plain sight by diners, calmly and meticulously guiding the staff in the kitchen, which occupies a corner of the expansive open-plan space, with the pass the first thing guests see upon entry. The next thing diners may notice is the almost zen-like quality of the restaurant – a true sign of expertly trained servers, efficient management and world-class kitchen staff.
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Interiors at Skof reference Manchester’s industrial heritage and the chef’s upbringing in the Lake District (Image: Cristian Barnett)
This is a masterclass in Northern hospitality, devoid of any unnecessary fussiness. The name Skof itself is Edwardian slang for food, but as Barnes has previously mentioned, it’s also something his father would say to him during his childhood in Cumbria. Quite clearly, his Northern roots are deeply meaningful to him and are seamlessly integrated into every aspect of the meal.
The price point here is significant. The restaurant’s two tasting menus are priced at either £120 for 12 courses or £165 for 15, with the four course lunch at just £50, which, for a restaurant of this standard, is a steal.
Manchester Evening News reporter Jenna Campbell visited the restaurant and opted for the lunch, reporting that she was delighted by the ceremony of one course, a steaming onion broth, poured into antique-looking bowls by three waiters that converged on their table.
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The Herdwick lamb dish from the lunch menu at Skof in Manchester (Image: Manchester Evening News)
Their first dish was Herdwick Lamb accompanied by Roscoff onions, stout, and ewe’s milk, with Jenna bowled over by the “medieval and ritualistic” fare, commenting that the dishes are “very much about putting flavour front and centre”.
As with many of Tom’s dishes, he capitalises on local ingredients and producers – ensuring the best of the abundant north-west larder is utilised. In this stunning offering, small lamb croquettes peek out from under a layer of creamy yoghurt whey cooked in ewe’s milk, resembling a savoury custard topped with panko breadcrumbs.
Jenna was effusive, commenting that each mouthful was “a beautiful balance of flavour and texture”.
Vegetables from Our Farm’, a dish at the award-winning restaurant that utilises the freshest produce from Simon Rogan’s farm in Cartmel, as well as Cinderwood Market Garden in Nantwich (Image: Manchester Evening News)
The second dish on the menu was ‘Vegetables from Our Farm’, a creation that showcases the freshest produce from Simon Rogan’s farm in Cumbria, as well as Cinderwood Market Garden in Nantwich, Cheshire. The bounty of vegetables, fruits and herbs cultivated in these valleys are transported to L’Enclume and now Skof.
The medley of vegetables, featuring soft tomatoes, firm potatoes and crispy cavolo nero, offers a tantalising array of textures, with a delicate sauce poured at the table adding “a perfect pop of umami”.
However, it’s the main course of confit Sladesdown duck that truly steals the show, with Jenna reporting that it was presented beautifully, bringing to her mind “a mini Stonehenge”.
Confit Sladesdown Duck served with beetroot, elderflower and preserved cherry (Image: Manchester Evening News)
Tender pieces of duck breast, boasting a crispy exterior and topped with pickled onion, take centre stage on the plate, with a rich sauce derived from simmering the trimmings and bones. Dots of black cherry puree provide a delightful contrast to the melt-in-your-mouth duck breast.
The “bouncy brioche”, laminated with Manchester honey, miso and sea salt, and slathered with whipped butter, makes an ideal accompaniment for mopping up the remaining sauce.
Brioche at Skof (Image: Manchester Evening News )
Barnes’ Northern roots truly shine when it comes to the desserts. Having previously sampled the chef’s Tiramisu, a touching tribute to the chef’s late father, Jenna was eager to try the baked rice pudding, which she described as “a comforting marriage of flavours, the tart poached Yorkshire rhubarb, and moreish tangy gingerbread and orange crumb”.
The reporter summed up the dish as “potentially the poshest take on a school dinner pudding staple” she’d ever sampled.
Baked Rice Pudding with poached Yorkshire rhubarb, gingerbread and almond served at Skof in Manchester (Image: Manchester Evening News)
Greater Manchester boasts a diverse range of excellent eateries – from hidden gem sandwich shops and standout rice-and-three cafes, to local bistros. The city excels at fine dining, but without the pretentious pomp and ceremony. The other restaurant to be presented with the esteemed accolade in the city is Simon Martin’s Mana, found on Blossom Street.