On the Vine: A white wine worth looking for

Over the years, the Albariño varietal has spread widely

If you want a crisp and fresh white wine, search for a varietal called Albariño, a grape in northwestern Spain and across the border in Portugal, where it is called Alvarinho.

They decided to switch from the Bordeaux reds they made at Black Hills to varietals new to the Okanagan, and their research led them to Albariño, as well as another Spanish white, Verdejo.

In 2021, shortly after Terravista was acquired by Dallas and Eric Thor, a second vineyard was planted with Albariño. Both are high on the Naramata Bench.

Terravista Vineyards, which is high on the Naramata Bench in the Okanagan, is owned by Dallas and Eric Thor.
Terravista Vineyards, which is high on the Naramata Bench in the Okanagan, is owned by Dallas and Eric Thor.Photo by Picasa

Unfortunately, the devasting freeze in January 2024 wiped out almost all grape production from Terravista’s 19 acres, and winemaker Nadine Kinvig harvested just enough grapes to make 25 cases of wine. “Overall, the plants survived and will hopefully recover and be fruitful next vintage,” the winery has reported.

Not wanting to miss a vintage, Eric Thor and his winemaker searched out growers in Washington State and California with Albariño to sell.

The varietal has been growing in Washington since at least 2000. With Riesling-like acidity, but with peachy flavours, Albariño has won a strong following there.

Terravista imported enough fruit last fall that it has already been able to release a sparkling Albariño, and will release several table wines this spring.

At Stag’s Hollow, the 2023 Albariño is sold out. Due to winter damage, none was made in 2024 because the winery’s owner is among the minority of Okanagan vintners not importing any grapes.

Three to Try

Terravista Sparkling Albariño 2024 Proyecto Terruño

This Charmat-method sparkling wine is fresh and vibrant. It begins with aromas of citrus and pears and delivers big citrus and kiwi flavours to the palate. The finish is crisp. ($35) | 90/100

Terravista Figaro 2023

Previous vintages of Figaro were blends of Viognier and Marsanne. Those suffered frost damage in the 2023 vintage, but the winery bought Chardonnay to serve as a backbone for this Figaro. The wine begins with aromas of apple, cantaloupe and stone fruits. It delivers a luscious bouquet of fruit to the palate, including nectarine and apple. ($33) | 92/100

Bodega Garzon Albariño Reserve 2022

Widely listed in B.C. liquor stores, this wine is from Uruguay’s leading winery. It is crisp and fresh, with citrus and white peach flavours. ($24.99) | 90/100

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