‘I live by stunning beach with crystal clear water – but no one swims for chilling reason’

Being born in a city where, no matter where you are, you’re never more than a few miles from the sandy shore might seem like a dream. But I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve actually swum in the sea in my hometown.

Recife, the capital of the state of Pernambuco in Brazil, enjoys a warm climate year-round, with temperatures rarely dropping below 25°C. Summers are hot but not unbearable, with highs typically peaking at 32°C.

The turquoise Atlantic waters stretch along a bustling shore, lined with high-rise buildings, vibrant local markets, white sand, and tropical drinks to die for. Yet, if you look around, you’ll notice something strange: very few people actually swimming in the sea.

Surfers are strictly prohibited, boats are rare and far apart, and lifeguards keep watch to ensure no one ventures further than washing their hands or feet in the ocean. This is all due to the biggest threat at Boa Viagem Beach: sharks.

Boa Viagem is one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in Recife – But tourists often land at Recife International Airport only to head to safer waters in popular neighbouring beaches like or .

This hasn’t always been the case. Nearly a kilometer offshore, a deep ocean trench runs parallel to the city, forming a migratory route for sharks. The problem only surfaced after the completion of the Port of Suape, 12 miles south of Boa Viagem Beach.

Construction began in the late 1970s, but it wasn’t until 1992 that the port began attracting significant shipping traffic. And, as it happens, before 1992, Recife had no more shark attacks than any other beach in Brazil.

To build the port, estuaries were dredged and long docks extended into the ocean. This disrupted the ecosystem, particularly affecting bull and tiger sharks, which thrive in estuaries and brackish waters. With their breeding and hunting grounds disturbed, sharks moved closer to the shore.

Since I was born, it has never been that surprising to hear news of a new shark attack that happened nearby – and the worst part is, they are usually fatal. At one point, of 56 reported incidents, 21 resulted in death, a shocking 37% fatality rate, compared to the global average of 16%, according to the Florida State Museum of Natural History.

The most dangerous stretch is in front of the Piedade Church. Of the 66 attacks recorded in the whole state of Pernambuco, 12 happened here – in a small city square-sized bit of the beach.

One of the most shocking occurrences happened in March 2023. On March 5, 14-year-old José Ernesto da Silva was attacked near Piedade Beach, suffering severe injuries to his right leg. The next day, 15-year-old Kaliane Rocha was bitten on her left arm in the same waters. Both underwent emergency surgeries and were in serious condition.

Two years earlier, on July 10, 2021, 51-year-old Marcelo Rocha Santos was the most recent fatal victim. Attacked near the same stretch of beach, Marcelo got his hand severed instantly, and his injuries ultimately proved fatal.

Despite growing up a 30-second walk from the sea, the risk was ingrained in us from birth. I remember keeping watch on the waters, looking down from the balcony of the sea-facing apartment my family lived in, allowing my imagination to pretend the foam formed by the waves were the fins of a great white. The species is not native to the Recife shore, but what’s science against a child’s sense of certainty?

So, it’s safe to say that most locals are well-aware of the dangers and would avoid risking their lives at all costs. Right?

Not really. After every attack, the same conversations echo across the city: “Another one? Why don’t people learn?” Most avoid the water for a while – until enough time passes, and the temptation to take just a quick dip when the tide is high becomes too strong. Then, inevitably, another attack happens, and the cycle restarts.

To make the danger impossible to ignore, authorities have placed warning signs in both Portuguese and English every few meters along the shore. They read: “Danger: Bathers in this area are at a greater than average risk of shark attacks.”

But by no means does that mean we can’t enjoy our coastline at all. Beach culture in Recife is strong as ever: days at Boa Viagem Beach start early, with joggers and cyclists enjoying the cool morning breeze along the promenade. Vendors set up their stalls, selling fresh coconut water, açaí, and tapioca pancakes, while beachgoers claim their spots under colorful umbrellas. 

Beach tennis and footvolley games draw both players and spectators, and those lounging around enjoy local delicacies such as grilled queijo coalho, ice-cold caipirinhas, nuts and popsicles, while street musicians provide an upbeat soundtrack.

For the fancier crowd, beachside restaurants and hotels offer fresh seafood and nightlife enjoyment, and bars gather the city’s most affluent crowds.

Authorities strongly advise against surfing or kayaking under any circumstances. However, during low tide, the natural reefs that gave Recife its name create shallow pools, keeping sharks restrained. It offers a rare chance for locals and tourists to safely lounge around in the water and, perhaps, get a brief, nostalgic glimpse of times gone by – or the Boa Viagem sea my grandparents lived by.