Aurora Expeditions company pioneered Antarctic travel, blending conservation, adventure and personalized luxury
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The seventh continent to ever have been visited by humans — Antarctica — was once the least explored place on Earth. But in recent years, it’s seen a large surge in popularity. Antarctic cruise tourism has increased significantly in recent years, driven by the growing appeal of expedition cruises and the wide range of options now available to travellers.
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And it’s no surprise why. This penguin-packed, frosty wonderland is practically bursting at the seams with breaching whales, waddling tuxedoed locals and a cast of wildlife so lively it feels like nature’s own soap opera — complete with epic adventures and jaw-dropping, otherworldly backdrops to set the scene. But with such a sensitive part of the world, it begs the question: should we be going here, and is it possible to do it sustainably?
I chose this itinerary for a specific reason — if I’m travelling to this remote corner of the world, I might as well experience it all. Spanning 23 days, this journey combines Antarctica with the Falklands and South Georgia, the iconic setting of countless scenes from Frozen Planet and Planet Earth. And let’s be honest — I’m here to channel my inner David Attenborough and live my absolute best wildlife-documentary dream.
As a sustainable travel journalist, I’ve been fortunate enough to be invited to this part of the world four times before — but this is the first time I’ve accepted. Why? Because it’s the first time a company has checked all those boxes.
South Georgia is undeniably the wildlife and bird highlight of the trip — earning its reputation as a mecca for some of the planet’s most extraordinary animal gatherings. Its geographical location plays a pivotal role in this distinction.
Nestled in the Southern Ocean, South Georgia lies at the convergence of the nutrient-rich Antarctic Circumpolar Current and warmer waters to the north. This unique positioning creates a fertile feeding ground teeming with krill, fish and squid — an irresistible buffet that draws vast populations of seabirds, penguins and marine mammals to its shores.
As I stand in St Andrews Bay, South Georgia, surrounded by over 150,000 breeding pairs of penguins — the largest colony in the world — I can’t help but feel the truth of Chester’s words.
But just a year earlier, such a moment wouldn’t have been possible due to the devastating impacts of bird flu. Nobody was allowed to land due to the risk of spreading the disease; however, things are looking better.
South Georgia is carefully managed by the South Georgia Heritage Trust and the Government of South Georgia & the South Sandwich Islands — organizations that work tirelessly to protect its unique ecosystem. South Georgia’s strict conservation efforts ensure this wildlife haven remains a sanctuary for generations to come, carefully balancing the delicate relationship between visitors and the natural world.
Biosecurity is taken extremely seriously here, with measures ranging from meticulously removing hitchhiking seeds from your clothing with tweezers to bringing rodent- and invasive-species-sniffing dogs aboard the ship. These efforts are a testament to the dedication of the organizations protecting this fragile ecosystem.
South Georgia is also home to the world’s largest successful rodent eradication project — a groundbreaking conservation achievement that, combined with invasive reindeer eradication, has restored the island’s ecosystem and allowed its native wildlife and their eggs to thrive and survive once again.
Tracing the legendary route of Shackleton’s Endurance, we raise a toast at his gravesite in Grytviken before embarking on two days at sea to our first stop in Antarctica: Elephant Island. This rugged, icy outpost is where Shackleton’s crew famously endured unimaginable hardships — surviving against all odds as they awaited rescue.
In 1914 it was one of the few places around Antarctica where people had ventured. What began as Shackleton’s ambitious plan to be the first to traverse the Antarctic continent instead became one of the most legendary survival and rescue stories in history.
Fast forward a century later, and 28 people on the continent has ballooned to 120,000 annual visitors.
Howard Whelan, founding editor of Australian Geographic and an expedition leader with Aurora for over 20 years, has witnessed Antarctica’s transformation firsthand — but not in the way you might think.
“On our first trips, we saw things that really disturbed our guests,” he recalls. “We’d visit research stations littered with rusting 44-gallon fuel drums, and if equipment broke, they’d just shove it out onto the sea ice to sink when it melted. Plane crashes were left to rust, and chemicals from labs were poured straight into the ocean, leaving some areas of the continental shelf completely devoid of life.”
Tourism, Whelan believes, has played a key role in driving change.
“Our guests were horrified by what they saw,” he says. “At the end of the trip, we’d sit down, share photocopies of who their senator or parliamentarian was and encourage them to write letters to demand change.”
This collective pressure helped shine a spotlight on the environmental issues in Antarctica, prompting governments to respond.
“If you didn’t have tourism in Antarctica, you wouldn’t have these eyes looking at what’s going on,” he explains. “Nowadays, those eyes are witnessing the undeniable impacts of climate change — and all attention is focused on the polar regions, where the effects are most visible and urgent.”
By 1994, the Madrid Protocol was added to the Antarctic Treaty, designating the continent as a natural reserve devoted to peace and science. As Whelan puts it, “We were really some of the first people pointing the spotlight on this problem down here. And things changed — they really did.”
Later, the Sylvia Earle is graced by the arrival of a pod of inquisitive orcas, their sleek forms cutting through the icy waters. From my snowshoe hike high on the mountain ridge, I pause to take in a breathtaking sight — a mother humpback and her calf gliding gracefully below, their movements a gentle dance in the pristine, untouched wilderness. These are surreal wildlife encounters only possible in Antarctica.
From their B Corp certification to their innovative operational practices, Aurora is setting a gold standard for responsible tourism. “Our approach to sustainability is about driving emissions reductions and going beyond just offsetting,” says Sasha Buch, director of sustainability at Aurora Expeditions. “It’s about having a net positive impact — taking out more emissions than we emit.”
Buch also highlights the broader significance of being part of the B Corp Movement. “It’s one of the highest verified standards of social and environmental performance, accountability and transparency,” she explains. “But it’s also about being part of a group of businesses working to have a positive impact on the world — on people and the planet — while maintaining profitability.”
“In Argentina, we work with small, family-run farms that practice regenerative farming, focusing on animal welfare and sustainable land management. It’s about making conscious choices at every level to support the health of ecosystems and communities.”
Education and advocacy are also at the heart of Aurora’s mission to create ambassadors for the planet. “Passengers on board contribute to global scientific research by gathering accurate data in remote places,” Buch says. “It’s about creating a broader understanding of ecosystems and wildlife dynamics.”
In addition to citizen science programs, Aurora’s expert biologists and scientists provide real-time education, helping passengers connect deeply with the environments they visit. “Education is a huge part of what we do. It’s not just about lectures — it’s about experiencing these fragile places firsthand and becoming advocates for their protection.”
B Corp-certified companies you can support now
Supporting B Corps means backing businesses that prioritize social and environmental responsibility, accountability and transparency while driving positive change for people and the planet. There are plenty of them to support before, during, and after your trip, and here are some of my favourites.
Argentina On The Go
Monos
Allbirds
It’s worth noting that every Aurora Antarctica expedition gives a complimentary mid-layer puffy coat, a waterproof shell, and water bottle at the beginning of the expedition.