Riesling represents crazy value, a flavour profile among the purest of any grapes, and comes in just about any style you could want
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We have been exploring a lot of B.C. Riesling lately, a joyous task at the worst of times, but that’s probably old news to you. It’s also old news that no matter what the experts think, consumers are not all that interested in Riesling. The pending renaissance, now long overdue by decades, isn’t likely to appear any time soon, if at all.
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There is no need to panic. It is not the end of the world for Riesling producers. Riesling’s cult factor, in the finest use of that word, remains powerful, and those who drink Riesling are not going anywhere. It is why the noble grape was the king of white wines at the turn of the 20th century, and only adds to its history of persistence in the world of wine. One wonders what, if anything, can be said about Riesling that may entice you to at least give some of the New World’s best a chance to captivate you.
If I were to say they represent crazy value, the flavour profile is among the purest of any grapes grown in the province, and they come in just about any style you could want, from bone dry to ultra-sweet and lately in sparkling wine, would that help? The vast majority are sold under screwcap, ensuring their delicate aromas and flavours will age forever untainted by a cork, but that hasn’t worked either. How about there are few, if any, foods that don’t taste better with Riesling?
You could argue that consumer indifference is perfect for inventory control, preventing overproduction and all the nasty things that can befall a darling grape when everybody and their dog want to make one and market it worldwide. Think Malbec, Rosé and Glera (Prosecco). I like to serve Riesling blind, then tell people it is Chardonnay, and wait for them to say, “That is the best Chardonnay I have ever tasted; where can I buy it.”
One significant development is helping to improve what many think is both a weakness and a strength of Riesling — how sweet or dry is it? It’s an easy-to-comprehend graphic scale designed by the International Riesling Foundation (IRF) that genuinely describes the style of wine, be it dry, medium-dry, medium-sweet or sweet, rather than how much sugar it contains. It’s neatly done with a pictorial scale that measures the relationship between the wine’s sugar and acid content and is displayed on the back label of participating producers. A few B.C. wineries are using it, but many more should. I can’t say enough about how useful and consumer-friendly it is.
This week, we feature a range of local favourites elsewhere on this page, but there are many more than just five to check out. Here is a short list of local Rieslings that should be on your buy list. You will find them scattered about in all the usual retail outlets: grocery stores, private retailers, B.C. liquor stores and, of course, direct from the wineries. You will find complete reviews at GismondonWine.com.
• Gehringer Private Reserve Riesling $18
• Gray Monk Riesling $19
• Bartier Bros. Riesling $23
• Quails’ Gate Riesling $23
• Fort Berens Riesling 2023 $24
• 50th Parallel Riesling $25
• Four Shadows Dry Riesling $25
• Lightning Rock Riesling $25.00
• Lunessence Estate ESV Riesling $27
• Monte Creek Ancient Waters Riesling $27
• Orofino Crossroads Vineyard Riesling $27
• Van Westen Vineyards Viscous $27.50
• Frind Brut Riesling $28
• Terravista En Terre Riesling $30.00
• Little Farm Winery Mulberry Tree Vineyard Riesling $30
• Tantalus Riesling 2023 $31
• Phantom Creek Estates Riesling $33
• Seven Stars Rigel Fool’s Gold Vineyard $37
• Free Form Riesling 2022 $37
• Rigour and Whimsy Bite of the Dragon $42.00
Weekend wine picks
Orofino Crossroads Vineyard Riesling 2022, Cawston, Similkameen Valley, B.C.
$26.95 I 92/100
UPC: 696852126588
We love the new Crossroads Vineyard Riesling for its incredible lightness. Elegant, long, lean, and feather-light, it is among the best expressions of Riesling made in B.C., specifically the Cawston Bench. This is a wow wine, from the pear and tangerine notes to its stony, mineral underside. What a bargain.
Van Westen Vineyards Viscous 2022, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, B.C.
$27.50 I 89/100
UPC: 626990393214
Viscous needs a new name, given it is anything but thick, gooey or gelatinous. The ’22 is perhaps the freshest version we have tasted. The nose is an orchard affair of nectarine, green apple and lime blossom notes. The palate is lively, with fresh green fruit and citrus bent, pitching golden apples and lemon peel notes, as well as an excellent mineral and wet stone undercurrent. It suits seafood salads and cheesy pasta, or you can sip it solo on a warm patio this spring.
Seven Stars Rigel Fool’s Gold Vineyard 2022, Okanagan Valley, B.C.
$36.97 I 90/100
UPC: 626990264392
The Seven Stars series uses the traditional method, where the second fermentation occurs in the bottle. The nose is a floral affair with lime blossoms and a touch of stony, flinty notes mixed with croissant. The attack is more lemon, with a strong citrus finish that is round and lively, with more stony mineral notes that electrify the middle palate. This is a perfect wine for West Coast oysters and is long, flavourful and complex.
Terravista En Terre Riesling 2023, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, B.C.
$30 I 91/100
UPC: 626990449300
En Terre, meaning earthen or of the earth, is a project that has been five years in the making at Terravista. It is also the name of the home vineyard on the Naramata Bench. This full-flavoured, vibrant Riesling straddles Germany’s elegant Mosel style and the richer wines of the Rheingau. Look for intense pear and orange, with a spray of citrus and smooth stone fruit and a finish sporting 17 grams of residual sugar that pleases without overwhelming the acidity. It’s an impressive start and wine you can serve with any spicy Southeast Asia dish. Expect it to age well.
Tantalus Riesling 2023, East Kelowna Slopes, Okanagan Valley, B.C.
$30.99 I 91/100
UPC: 626990067412
Over a few weeks, the flagship Riesling is picked across several estate vineyards plus neighbouring East Kelowna grower blocks. Expect a juicy, mouth-watering, off-dry Riesling with tangerine, lime, ripe pear, cold cream, and perfumed apricot and lime peel acidity, tempering the sugar. Friendly but never dumbed down, this is an Okanagan gem.
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Buying fine wine in B.C. has never been easy or cheap. As I write this the U.S. government is threatening to place a 25 per cent tariff on all Canadian goods crossing the border, and we are expected to do something similar, albeit more strategic, to U.S. products. In the case of American wine, there is talk among the provincial monopolies that they may remove U.S. wines from the shelves. Maybe we should consider reducing our current 87 per cent tariff on imported wines to 25 per cent. That way, we satisfy the need to match the American tariffs, and B.C. consumers enjoy a more open and unrestricted market with far more reasonable wine prices. Revenue losses could then be made up by a much smaller tax on all British Columbians rather than just wine drinkers to compensate for the loss of markup, or tax, revenue. If that sounds farcical, it is, but why change a system that has been a complete farce for a century?
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B.C. wine of the week
Black Hills Bona Fide 2022, Okanagan Valley, B.C.
$33.99 I 93/100
UPC: 00058976503049
The 2022 Bona Fide is a 42/33/25 mix of Malbec, Carmenere, and Syrah. It is a combination that shouts drink me. This wine won big at the 2024 National Wine Awards, taking home a prized platinum medal. The palate is a juicy affair of black and red fruits dusted in savoury south Okanagan scrub. You can drink or hold this wine; it is up to you. The wine is hand-harvested, bunch-sorted and wild fermented. It is aged primarily in concrete for 10 months, a small portion in 2000L neutral oak foudres. There is immense value here, a testament to departed winemaker Ross Wise’s gentle touch.
Value wine of the week
Amaral Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Valle de Leyda, Valle de San Antonio, Region de Aconcagua, Chile
$19.99 I 87/100
UPC: 007804407001768
This was good at $21.99; it is on sale until March 1 for $14.99. Crisp, pungent tropical fruit with a whack of asparagus greets the taster, reminiscent of early Kiwi versions. Passion fruit and gooseberries take the lead, with a spray of citrus, lime rind, and smoky jalapeño, followed by more grapefruit and green asparagus at the finish. Dry and crisp with some mid-palate flesh, this Sauvignon is ready to drink.