Once the weather turns cooler, many of us experience the all-too-human misery of dry, chapped lips. We apply cheap lip balm (bad idea) or lick them (even worse idea), then wonder why they’re always dry and flaky.
Dermatologists, who actually do experience this problem themselves, offered smart advice about why it’s happening and how to treat it.
Why Me, Oh Lip Gods?
What is it with lips? They seem to dry out the minute there’s a touch less humidity in the air. There’s a reason for that: “The skin on our lips is very delicate,” said dermatologist Dr. Saami Khalifian. “That skin is thinner than the skin on the rest of the body, and it doesn’t have the built-in oil glands that help keep the rest of our skin moisturized. So your lips lose moisture faster, making them more prone to dryness.”
In addition, lips encounter moisture-robbing saliva all day long. “It quickly evaporates and can leave lip skin dry,” said dermatologist Dr. Corey L. Hartman.
Dos And Don’ts From Derms
Dried-out lips need moisture, so many people resort to licking their lips, which is a very bad idea, these experts said. “Many of us have a natural response to lick our lips when they’re dry, and this can lead to a vicious cycle of what dermatologists call ‘lip-lickers dermatitis,’” said dermatologist Dr. Dylan Greeney. “It can cause an irritating rash on the lips and area surrounding our mouth.”
Another reason for chapping can be dehydration. Dermatologist Dr. Michelle Henry suggested drinking lots of water to keep your body hydrated, and she also pointed out the benefits of using an indoor humidifier. “You need to get that moisture into the air,” she said.
And, of course, there’s the trusty ol’ lip balm that you should have by your computer, in your car and on your nightstand (at a minimum). Every few years, there’s an urban myth floating around about people becoming “addicted” to using it, but the derms we talked to quickly quashed that idea. “Your lips are unable to develop a tolerance for lip balms, and won’t become dependent on them,” said dermatologist Dr. Jennette Graf.
“If you’re craving reapplication, it’s just because they have begun to dry out again or the air may be dry.” Hartman added, “There’s no reason to avoid using lip balm if you enjoy the experience.”
Greeney offered some thoughts about over-use: “You can get addicted to many things, but not lip balm,” he said. Diving deeper, he suggested that the myth arose from two factors: “Flavor in lip balms and ingredients can be allergens or irritants, driving us to lick our lips more, physically irritating them and worsening lip dryness. I’d say that 95% of the time, I can help my patient’s lip concerns by having them stop flavored lip balms and switching to science-backed lip balms.”
Ingredients To Look For — And Avoid
If you’re looking for a lip balm that won’t make things worse, the doctors had some label-shopping advice and suggested a number of ingredients that could be helpful. “Look for hydrating ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil and vitamin E,” Hartman said. “I also like ingredients like petrolatum and beeswax that can help protect the skin in addition to adding moisture. Avoid any ingredients that might irritate or dry the skin, like alcohol or menthol.”
Dermatologist Dr. Mojgan Hosseinipour said that some brands’ ingredients could make things worse: “Avoid Blistex, Carmex and Burt’s Bees,” she said. “These balms have ingredients such as camphor, menthol and propolis that can be irritating to the lips, further exacerbating dryness.”
Even though there are some balms you should avoid, there are still many great products out there that can restore your lips to their natural state. Check out these suggestions from the experts and avoid the chap.
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“It’s a no-frills option that checks all the boxes for me,” said Khalifian. “It’s moisturizing, protective, has no fragrances or preservative and doesn’t sting.” His recommendation was seconded by dermatologist Dr. Abrahem Kazemi, who described it as his “hands down” choice.
The product I share with all of my patients is this relatively new one,” Greeney said. “I love it because the name says what it is. This product leveled up the lip care space because it doesn’t just seal in moisture. It actively hydrates the delicate skin of the lips with various ingredients like peptides, ceramides and squalane.”
“Vaseline is my go-to, but if that doesn’t help, then I add a topical steroid,” said Hosseinipour. “This balm contains hydrocortisone, which many patients find helpful.” This was also recommended by dermatologist Dr. Brittany Oliver, who suggested it for more severe cases of chapped lips.
“Many of my patients have mentioned that they like this product, which is full of ingredients that are beneficial to lips,” Hartman said. “First, peptides will help plump the appearance of the lips and reduce fine lines, making it a great option for anyone with concerns around mild lines on the lips. Shea butter hydrates, and cupuacu helps maintain skin elasticity and improve suppleness.”
Graf said, “The formula includes one of my favorite skincare ingredients, peptides, which help lips look plumper without adding irritating ingredients. It also includes vitamin E and avocado oil to add hydration to the lips.”
“Anyone with dry, peeling lips, or anyone who is looking for exfoliation would like this product,” Hartman said. “The formula has AHA and peptides that help smooth out rough skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and plump the skin in the lips.”
“It’s been clinically shown to plump the lips with its tripeptide complex,” Hartman said of this pick. “Hyaluronic acid also adds moisture, so it’s a great option for aging lips to help reduce wrinkling and plump skin overall.”
“This brand has an entire line of skin protectants, with everything from lightweight gels to heavier ointments,” Oliver said.