While many cruise lines now offer family trips, adult-only holidays are still popular
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Cruising has changed since my first sailing in 2002. Back then, dinner was served in formal dining rooms at assigned communal tables. An evening dress code was enforced and there was at least one formal night.
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Entertainment leaned to 1950s show tunes, reflecting the age of passengers. Midnight buffets and pool games were the norm.
Today, more families are cruising, dining and dress codes are flexible, and ships have grown to mammoth proportions — often with crowded, noisy, public spaces. Mega-ships carry thousands of passengers, offer low basic fares and are loaded with high-adrenalin activities — drop coasters, surf riders, video arcades — for an extra fee. Enjoy some dinners in the extra-pay restaurants, hit the arcade, sign up for the Wi-Fi, take some shore excursions, and your final tally can be thousands of dollars more than the initial fare.
If cruising appeals to you but the above scenario does not, it’s a relief to know a few lines, like Viking Cruises, have evolved in a different direction.
It’s a dream itinerary for a first-time visitor to Europe — like my sister-in-law Amanda, who is sailing with me — or a veteran who wants to revisit some favourite spots.
The voyage begins in Venice. Rules protecting the city’s infrastructure mean Venus, and other large vessels, now dock outside of Venice. But a 30-minute boat ride on the Viking Cruises shuttle makes it easy to reach the heart of Italy’s most romantic city. Venus overnights in Venice so guests have lots of time to explore.
Over-tourism in places such as Venice has been a hot topic lately.
On Day 2, we arrive early and find Piazza San Marco surprisingly uncrowded. The lineup for the Doge’s Palace is shorter than I’ve ever seen, but it’s a fine day and we opt to stay outdoors. After oohing and aahing over the impressive architecture of the palace, the multi-domed Basilica and the Clock Tower, we wander beyond the Rialto Bridge along quiet cobblestone lanes and over small bridges, stopping for selfies, coffee and gelato.
When we return to San Marco in the early afternoon, the piazza is thronged with tourists and we’re happy to return to the ship, which sails for Split later that day.
Split’s history dates to the second century BCE, when it was founded by the Greeks. During its history, it has been controlled by the Roman, Byzantine and Habsburg empires, the Republic of Venice, and the former Yugoslavia. Steps from the seaside promenade, are the massive ruins of Diocletian’s Palace and St. Domnius Cathedral, where masses are still held. We also take a shore excursion to Trogir, another well preserved ancient town on Croatia’s scenic Dalmatian Coast.
The next morning we dock in Dubrovnik, which gained recent fame as a major Game of Thrones filming location. Despite a misty rain, the streets are crowded. The cobblestones are a bit slick so we don’t climb the steep stairs and walk the walls encircling the old town. Instead, we admire the restored medieval architecture and soak up the vibe over coffee and pastries at a café tucked into a narrow alleyway.
Kotor proves to be a little gem. A web of skinny lanes links a dozen small squares edged by palaces, churches and museums. Like other places on this itinerary, Kotor is a UNESCO site. During our included walking tour, the guide tells us city planners deliberately made the town layout confusing to deter invaders.
The end of our cruise is suddenly looming with only two more stops before disembarkation — the island of Corfu and Katakolon.
In Corfu, we take the included walking tour then indulge in some retail therapy. The city’s warren of streets are packed with shops selling everything from souvenirs to ladieswear to foodstuffs such as honey, kumquat jam and olive oil.
Our final full day is spent in Katakolon, near Ancient Olympia, where the first Olympic Games took place and where the Olympic flame for the modern games is lit. Highlights include the Ancient Stadium, ruins of the Zeus and Hera temples, and the excellent Archeological Museum. We’ve soaked up tons of history and are ready for something different so we take a paid excursion to sample olive oil and wines at local producers.
After busy days ashore, we are always ready to be back on board. Few ships can match the quiet sophistication of Viking’s ocean going vessels. With its neutral Scandi-chic design, Venus feels more like a home than a ship. With only 930 guests, the public spaces are never crowded.
Each day also includes delicious meals and excellent service. Whether it’s breakfast, lunch, a multi-course dinner in The Restaurant or sampling at the buffet-style World Cafe, every dish is well prepared and beautifully presented. Reservations are needed for the two excellent specialty restaurants — Manfredi’s and Chef’s Table — but there is no extra charge. An elegant tea is served every afternoon in the Wintergarden.
The LivNordic spa offers pampering paid treatments and the chance to try Scandinavian-style bathing — warming up in the steamy sauna, then chilling out in the Snow Grotto. Not being a fan of the hot-cold experience, I opt for a soothing soak in the mineral pool. Use of the mineral pool, sauna and Snow Grotto are all included.
After disembarking in Athens, my only regret is we can’t stay longer to explore the ancient Greek capital. Next time!