Monty Don shares 3 plants that must be pruned now effectively to ‘stimulate extra flowers’

Monty Don shares 3 plants that must be pruned now effectively to ‘stimulate extra flowers’ (Image: Getty)

is a great way to maintain your . The key goal is to eliminate any dead, dying, or diseased wood to promote robust growth.

With most woody plants entering dormancy during winter, alongside many of the diseases and pests that could infest pruning wounds, opting for a cold-weather prune helps ward off infections in freshly trimmed trees and shrubs. 

In his blog entry for February, shared essential advice for pruning specific plants. The expert wrote: “Pruning should be completed whether for roses, fruit trees or remedial pruning of outgrown hedges or shrubs. 

“There are a number of pruning jobs that can be done in February if you live in the south of the UK.”

On the subject of pruning, Monty insists gardeners should “always” use ultra-sharp tools. He explained: “Not only does it make life much easier but it also makes for much cleaner cuts and therefore causes less damage to the plant. Sharp tools are also much safer.”

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Check the pruning blade for sharpness. Trimming tree with a cutter. Spring pruning of fruit trees.

Monty insists gardeners should “always” use ultra-sharp tools (Image: Getty)

1. Roses

Despite the common misconceptions about pruning roses, Monty clarified that they are all hardy shrubs that “can take a mauling by anything” from secateurs to a flail cutter and still recover. However, there are “three considerations to bear in mind” when pruning roses.

Shrub roses

Monty stated that these require “very little pruning”, and a quick trim with a hedge trimmer has proven to be “very effective”. 

He added: “I prune mine in winter and early spring by removing exceptionally long growth, damaged or crossing branches and then leave alone. There is a strong case for doing this in late summer or early autumn.”

Climbing roses

This category can be split into two groups. The first group includes true climbers, which typically have single, large flowers that bloom from early summer right through to autumn.

Monty recommended: “These should be pruned in autumn or winter, aiming to maintain a framework of long stems trained laterally with side branches sprouting from them. 

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Woman pruning climbing roses in a domestic garden. Stock photo.

Prune true climbers by a third so the plant is constantly rejuvenating itself (Image: Getty)

“These side branches will bear the flowers on new growth produced in spring. Ideally, a third of the plant is removed each year – the oldest, woodiest stems – so that it is constantly rejuvenating itself.”

The second group are ramblers which produce clusters of smaller flowers just once in mid-summer. The expert advised: “These require minimal pruning but should be trained and trimmed immediately after flowering as the flowers are mostly borne on stems grown in late summer.”

2. Clematis 

Monty revealed that late-flowering clematis can all be pruned hard from the middle of February. This group includes clematis jackmanii, clematis viticella, Gypsy Queen, Hagley Hybrid, Perle d’Azur and Ville de Lyon.

Monty explained: “They all flower on growth made in spring so all the previous year’s growth should be cleared away now. I always cut down to about two feet from the ground, leaving at least two healthy pairs of buds.”

clematis jackmanii

Late-flowering clematis can all be pruned hard from the middle of February (Image: Getty)

3. Buddleias

For those living in the south or a sheltered spot, February is “the best time to prune the butterfly bush”, buddleia davidii, and for those in colder regions, it can be pruned anytime within the next month. 

Since it bears flowers on new growth, cutting it back hard now, just as it starts to grow, will “stimulate new shoots and extra growth”.

If a plant is growing freely in the open, Monty suggested it can be pruned back significantly, leaving just two or three sets of new shoots from the base.

However, for plants growing within a border, he recommended cutting back to about two or three feet from the ground. This approach ensures that the new growth doesn’t have to struggle with neighbouring herbaceous plants for light and air.

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