I went to Las Vegas for 72 hours — one thing in my hotel was a total show-stopper

“Man, I really like Vegas,” Elvis once declared about the Nevada retreat he considered his second home. After a whirlwind 72-hour stint in “Sin City”, I find myself agreeing with the King.

Bright, brash and bathed in neon, Las Vegas is an assault on the senses, dazzling visitors with its promise of glitzy entertainment.

The renowned Las Vegas Strip, the pulsating heart of this desert oasis, houses some of the world’s most famous hotels and casinos. Outrageous, flamboyant and completely over-the-top, you’ll discover a 541ft replica Eiffel Tower at the Paris Las Vegas Hotel, gondolas sailing on the Venetian’s “Grand Canal”, and a 30-storey pyramid at the Luxor.

It’s a sensory overload, but it’s impossible not to love it. While Vegas is synonymous with gambling, it’s also famed for its star-studded shows, with Celine Dion, Britney Spears and Adele all having held residencies in the city.

Attending a show is an integral part of the Vegas experience, so we made our way to the iconic Caesars Palace to watch Absinthe described as a “fantastical blend of carnival and spectacle, featuring wild, outlandish acts performed on an intimate circular stage where the audience is as close to the action as you can possibly get”. Critics have labelled it “as provocative as it is unforgettable” and they couldn’t be more accurate.

The festivities kick off with cocktails and nibbles at the Pier 17 Yacht Club speakeasy nestled in the hotel’s enchanting Green Fairy Garden. Yet, as we settle into the tent, a hushed voice warns me, “I wouldn’t want to be sat there”. Perched at the end, merely three rows from the action, my pulse races in anticipation.

Absinthe is an unabashedly adult show, blending raunchy humour, rowdy crowds, and risque burlesque with a modern circus twist. Throughout the performance, I’m perched on the brink of my seat, captivated by the performers’ elegant yet heart-stopping stunts and the palpable threat of becoming the next victim of The Gazillionaire’s merciless wit.

And indeed, when he quips: “Are you a throuple? ” my heart leaps, fearing I’m his next target. To my relief, the jest is directed at a trio seated behind us who, to be honest, might well fit the bill.

Post-show, we decompress with a leisurely walk along The Strip, marvelling at the Bellagio Fountains’ spectacular free display. Over a thousand jets dance to music and lights, shooting water up to 460ft against the dark sky, creating a truly “wow” Vegas spectacle.

Adjacent to the grandeur of the Bellagio is The Cosmopolitan, where a hidden gem awaits. Concealed behind a nondescript janitor’s door in a traditional barber shop lies a secret prohibition-era bar, replete with plush seating and a vast selection of whiskies.

It’s karaoke night, the drinks are flowing and it’s well past my usual bedtime. But that’s just Vegas for you. The night is always young and there’s no telling where or when it will end.

The enormous Virgin Hotel

Even the most seasoned party-goers need to recharge their batteries occasionally, which makes staying slightly off Strip a wise choice. Virgin Hotels Las Vegas, which opened its doors in March 2021, is a 30-minute stroll from the heart of the action or a brief Uber ride away in the blistering 40C heat.

My king-sized chamber suite in the resort’s Ruby Tower is a spacious, chic and air-conditioned sanctuary with a bathtub for two, a dedicated lounge, and a view over the desert pool oasis.

The 1,500-room hotel is enormous, boasting a 60,000sq ft casino, a branch of upscale Japanese favourite Nobu, a theatre with a capacity of 4,600, and a Studio 54-inspired social lounge and bar named The Shag Room. But for me, the real highlight is the expansive pool complex it’s the ideal spot to relax before getting dolled up for another night on the town.

We do it in style by renting waterside cabanas where the Veuve Clicquot cools gently in the fridge under the relentless sun.

Life beyond the Strip

Just a 20-minute drive west of the city transports you to a seemingly different world. Red Rock Canyon, with its naturally beautiful, enchanting labyrinth of sandstone cliffs dating back 190 million years, has been the backdrop for many early Westerns.

We embarked on a Pink Jeep Tour along the 13-mile scenic route through the conservation park, marvelling at the vibrant red and orange hues of the oxidised rocks and revelling in the vast emptiness of the landscape. Our knowledgeable driver made regular stops, allowing us to explore the terrain, scale cliff faces, and discover an array of natural wonders.

At the visitor centre, we caught a glimpse of desert tortoises, admired ancient wall art estimated to be 800 years old, and posed for photos alongside a majestic Joshua tree – although the elusive mountain goats remained out of sight. This unexpected adventure proved to be a highlight of our trip, offering a welcome respite from the city’s hustle and bustle.

As it turns out, Las Vegas is full of surprises, including a museum dedicated to the punk rock movement. Our guide, Morat, was a passionate and authentic punk rocker from London, who also happens to be the frontman of the Soldiers of Destruction and a close friend of the late Lemmy from Motorhead.

The Punk Rock Museum boasts an extensive collection, featuring iconic items such as the lyrics to London Calling and “Joe Strummer’s San Francisco Stash”. Visitors can even get hands-on experience playing actual guitars.

This experience served as a reminder to venture off the beaten path and explore other areas of this expanding city. The Arts District, also known as 18b, is located southwest of downtown Vegas and offers a unique blend of galleries, vintage stores, and independent bars, all set against a backdrop of art-adorned streets.

At the heart of our culinary adventure, we find ourselves at Esther’s Kitchen, a gastronomic gem and the pride of local chef extraordinaire James Trees. While The Strip is awash with glitzy celebrity eateries, Esther’s Kitchen offers a more intimate vibe, dishing up genuine Italian cuisine crafted from the freshest seasonal ingredients.

Even on a Monday afternoon, the restaurant is abuzz with energy as pizza maestros showcase their skills at the central station, and the lively hum of conversation fills the airy dining space.

Named in honour of James’ great-aunt, who kindled his passion for cooking, the menu evokes nostalgic flavours reminiscent of meals shared with childhood companions. The homemade sourdough, lavishly spread with anchovy butter, garlic, and capers, is simply heavenly, setting the stage for a succession of truly remarkable dishes.

Standouts include the fiery Diavolo pizza, laden with chorizo and chilli, and the zucca alla zozzona, a delightful concoction featuring sausage and pecorino cheese.

Would I venture to Vegas again? Without hesitation. It’s an exhilarating whirlwind that pushes you out of your comfort zone, perfectly encapsulating the adage, “Everyone needs a little Las Vegas in their life! “.

Virgin’s Big Birthday

This Vegas journey aligns with the eagerly awaited resumption of Virgin’s direct flights from Manchester and the airline’s grand 40th-anniversary celebration.

Transatlantic travel seems unimaginable without Virgin’s presence, and at the company’s Las Vegas hotel, founder Sir Richard Branson shares his contemplative thoughts.

He fondly remembers the inaugural flight from Gatwick to Newark, New York, on a leased Boeing 747-200, and the challenges faced while launching an airline in a highly competitive market.

At a celebration at Virgin Hotels Las Vegas, Sir Richard recalls how the airline played a crucial role in a Baghdad rescue mission in 1990, flying 40 sick and injured hostages out of Iraq.

Malcolm King-MacKinnon, a volunteer crew member on that flight, and his wife Jacqui are among the guests. The couple, residing in Heswall, Wirral, continue to work for Virgin after meeting in a staff car park back in 1988.

After noticing Jacqui in the iconic red uniform, Malcolm offered to assist with her luggage, and their love story began. Now married with two daughters, they renew their vows at the renowned Little White Wedding Chapel, which Sir Richard unexpectedly joins, taking over from the Elvis impersonator to conduct the ceremony.

The party is in full swing, with guests including the Virgin team, crew, frequent flyers, Vegas dignitaries, and the press. Sir Richard takes a leap into the pool fully dressed, and everyone follows suit. It’s set to be an unforgettable night. 

Book the holiday

• Virgin Atlantic Holidays offers three nights in Las Vegas with Virgin Atlantic flights from Heathrow and accommodation at Virgin Hotels Las Vegas from £787pp, departing on November 24. Manchester flights on May 20 from £933pp.

• Flight-only from Heathrow starts at £587 return, £711 from Manchester.

• More info at