Caribbean oasis is a refreshing and exhilarating change from the ‘sea of sameness’
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We have been “limin’” for days already without even knowing it, which is the point of the unofficial code for activating relax mode on the brilliant Caribbean Island of St. Kitts and its little sister Nevis.
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We were limin’ when we arrived and spent our first night at the Belle Mont Sanctuary Resort, a sensationally serene oasis at the northwestern tip of St. Kitts. From our private cottage, complete with personal infinity pool, the stunning ocean views from our perch on Kittitian Hill was the ideal scene and mood setter for this version of island time.
The limin’ was more lively down at the Cockleshell Bay at the bottom of St. Kitts, where sunshine, sand and bumping beach bars (hello, Reggae Beach and Spice Mill) can kick it up to whatever degree you choose.
The limin’ lifestyle is a thing in St. Kitts, as it is through other islands, more a way of life than merely a buzzword. The friendly, accommodating people on St. Kitts and Nevis like to think of the concept as their own, and who are we to argue?
And so it is on my last full day of idyllic island life that I get the best description of how one limes. It’s being delivered just off of Pinney’s Beach on Nevis at legendary Sunshine’s, perhaps the most iconic beach bar in all of the Caribbean.
“Limin’ is good times,” begins Pheon Jones, a sage director of marketing for the Nevis Tourism Authority. “Limin’ is a way of life. It’s good people, good vibes and letting it all soak over you. It can happen anywhere and it makes you feel good about yourself.”
Preach.
And there may be no better place in all of the Caribbean to embrace and absorb the concept.
St. Kitts and its smaller sibling are relatively new to the tourism game in a Caribbean context, an all nature evolution after the shuttering of the sugar cane industry in 2005 paved the way for a new economy to flourish. Kittitians have transitioned nicely in this regard, with ample opportunity to show off their island and a palpable pride in doing so.
WHY ST. KITTS?
Winter-fleeing Canadians have been drawn to the Caribbean for as long as there has been means to get there. But as it was put to me by one proud Kittitian, there can also be a “sea of sameness” to vacation spots in the region and St. Kitts and Nevis aim to break that mould.
This isn’t an endless stretch of all-inclusive resorts serving up similar vacation experiences. Our time on the islands had that ideal vacation blend — heavy on the relaxing, plenty of sunshine, a daily fix of the lime life, and a generous enough mix of the captivating culture that is the heartbeat of these islands.
On St. Kitts, learning about the fascinating and at-times complicated history is to open a window into the charm you will see from engaging with the people and places throughout.
An ideal starting point is the Brimstone Hill Fortress and National Park, a breathtaking UNESCO-listed fortress that was first built in 1690. Here, the heritage of St. Kitts — named after Christopher Columbus who “discovered” the island in 1493 — unfolds. The dramatic fortress offers stunning views from its perch 800 feet above sea level and offers some sobering history to the battles between the French and British for colonization.
Just 29 km from top to bottom, St. Kitts is spectacular — and spectacularly different — throughout. From the rugged rain forests inland, to the incredible postcard peninsula in the southeast — with the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Caribbean on the other, its made for the perfect mix of exploring and relaxing.
MAKE A RUM FOR IT
It wouldn’t be the Caribbean if rum — both consuming and making — wasn’t part of the cultural story and St. Kitts delivers.
A visit to the Old Road Rum Company, a distillery in which the dark nectar first flowed back in 1681, is a worthy stop — first for the informative tour and back story that spans generations for Kittitians. There’s always a chance to sample the small batch product, tasty from being aged for 12 years in ex-Bourbon casks which makes the rum itself worthy of sipping as much as mixing.
Down at the Spice Mill Restaurant, nestled up to the inviting sands of Cockleshell Beach, owner Roger Brisbane offers an interactive look into his spiced-rum making endeavours in his Hibiscus spirits. Roger walks you through the process, helps you make his signature cocktail — the Rumtini — and does it all with a stunning view of Nevis in the background.
If you’re still in the limin’ mood after the course, step on down to the heaven-on-earth tiki bar just steps from the beach.
ST. KITTS SNAPSHOTS
— There are numerous ways to experience the rainforest — an underrated yet fascinating feature of St. Kitts — but a guided hiking tour with our guide O’Neil Mulraine was as insightful as it was invigorating. Well-versed in the many plants under the cooling canopy of the rainforest foliage, O’Neil scampers up the slopes of Mount Liamuiga with a running commentary on the medicinal benefits of many of them.
— The Timothy Hill overlook is probable the most famous Instagram spot on the island, serving up panoramic views of the Atlantic, Caribbean and in the distance, Nevis. Not to be missed.
— “You can’t come to St. Kitts and not have lobster,” says Telsa Johnson, the executive chef at The Kitchen, the culinary delight at Belle Mont Farm. The man isn’t wrong. The spiny lobster, caught fresh around the island, is available everywhere. It is certainly the show stopper of Johnson’s brilliant Kittitian Flavours Dinner experience, a farm-to-table feast. It’s also a Friday night party, complete with a live band on the sand, at the Reggae Beach Lobster Fest and a featured item just about everywhere you dine on the islands.
— If you like it spicy, be sure to snag some Guava Pepper Sauce from Llewellyn’s on Nevis. Handle with care and you won’t regret it.
— There’s plenty to see on Nevis, including the Alexander Hamilton Museum in Charleston. The famous American constitutionalist, who was born in Nevis in 1757, lived on the island until he was seven.
TASTE OF HOME
Come for the stunning sunsets and stay for an incredible meal brought to you by a Canadian duo who have created one of the hottest dining experiences on St. Kitts.
The Orchid Bay Beach House Restaurant, built on a spectacular piece of property at Christophe Harbour, is the brainchild of David Di Rienzo, a Quebec native whose Razo Construction build luxury homes on the islands. His personal showpiece is Orchid Bay, a terrific dining experience with impossibly stunning views, especially as the sun sets.
To keep the Canadian connection for his top-notch, authentic Italian cuisine, Di Rienzo hired Brendan Gooderham as his chef. The result is a first-class dining experience that has become a must-stop on the bursting foodie scene on St. Kitts.
SOAK UP SUNSHINE’S
We take you back to Sunshine’s where local hangout meets can’t-miss-tourist-stop is a cavalcade of colours. From the bright collection of wooden huts and bar stools, it’s all charm and no pretence.
Over-time Sunshine’s has become a celebrity hangout with pictures of many of them — including Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau – on the walls. From Mel Gibson to Wayne Gretzky to Michael Strahan and Meryl Streep, the celebrity roll call is impressive.
Adding to the legend is the Killer Bee — a house drink with a lime and grenadine base laced with rum that is not to be disrespected.
WHERE WE STAYED
The Park Hyatt St. Kitts Christophe Harbour is located about as far south as you could go on the island and thus as close to Nevis than just about any other spot. The five-star resort offers brilliant ocean-view suites close enough to hear the waves from your balcony.
