I went to Gail’s for the first time – if they’re all like this, we don’t need any more

In the bustling city of London, it can be challenging to identify a single symbol that encapsulates its essence. The city’s music and fashion scenes are as transient as the millions who call London home before moving on.

While London may not be renowned for its cuisine, one tradition has stood the test of time for over a century – the iconic East End bakeries, a culinary peculiarity that distinguishes the capital from other UK cities. As a Geordie new to London, I was unfamiliar with the significance of these local bakeries, offering every conceivable wheat product, until I witnessed their cherished status within their communities.

Despite my outsider’s perspective, I hold this tradition in high regard. The narrative often revolves around the struggle between long-established independents and powerful corporate chains, and this situation is no different.

Gail’s Bakery, which was launched on Hampstead High Street in 2005 by entrepreneurs Gail Mejia and Tom Molnar, is a shining example of London business success. There are rumours that it could soon be sold in a deal worth £500 million.

However, its rapid growth has sparked concern among small businesses who fear its expansion could lead to the downfall of independent shops and an increase in commercial rents. Last summer, Walthamstow residents petitioned against a Gail’s opening in their area, with similar protests now reported in Stoke Newington, reports <a href=”https://www.mylondon.news/whats-on/reviews/i-visited-gails-first-time-30797834″ rel=”Follow” target=”_self”>MyLondon</a>.

Despite its corporate image, from the sleek white minimalism of its branding and interiors to its origins as a venture by two experienced entrepreneurs, Gail’s prides itself on its ‘passion’ for producing high-quality bread. This isn’t a family business passed down through generations, but a modern enterprise that is clearly succeeding, as the Gail’s brand begins to expand beyond London, with plans for 35 new branches in the pipeline.

With an open mind, I ventured into a local Gail’s bakery for the first time, unaware of what to expect from their menu. Upon reaching the counter, I was greeted by a seemingly young and inexperienced server.

The menu wasn’t extensive, offering choices between sourdough or bagels with various spreads, and a more substantial option of double eggs with either bacon or salmon. However, as I began to place my order, the server abruptly walked away mid-sentence without any explanation, leaving me standing at the counter in confusion.

After consulting with a colleague, she returned and I resumed ordering. I opted for a bagel with almond butter sauce and jam (£4) and was considering the double eggs and bacon (£8.70) as a main course.

However, I was informed they had run out of eggs. This was surprising given it was only 2pm, the cafe was half full, and there were still several hours of trading left.

There seemed no valid reason for such a shortfall. When I enquired about alternative options, the server vaguely gestured towards the remaining items on the limited menu.

Bacon?

Not available. Salmon?

Yes.

So, for £4.60, I ordered a plate of salmon, accompanied by a strong latte.

I ponder, should I carry on with this critique?

Is it just?

Perhaps I should opt for a different Gail’s?

Yet, I remind myself, this outlet is an integral part of the franchise. It’s not my duty to ensure they’re well-stocked or that the staff are versed in customer service.

I’m abruptly given a metal stand marked with the number ‘6’ and instructed, “This is how we’ll know to give it to you”. Marching to my seat with my metallic “6”, I can’t help but feel like a prisoner at His Majesty’s Pleasure.

My double latte, which – admittedly a first-world gripe, I have to fetch myself – is quite satisfactory. It’s creamy without being too potent, yet still packs enough flavour for my liking.

I’d place it above Costa but it doesn’t quite reach the heights of Caffe Nero (refer to my review HERE for those opinions). When the food is served, my pair of bagels are toasted to perfection; crispy on the exterior, soft within, accompanied by almond butter and jam.

The almond butter is a treat in itself, rich and nutty – I’m tempted to purchase a tub from their selection, though it’s a tad overwhelming for the toasted bagels – next time, I’d choose the melt-in-your-mouth regular butter. The jam is delightful, almost syrupy, and does wonders in adding moisture to the baked delights.

Moving on to my salmon and… I realise I have no cutlery. Am I expected to use my hands, leaving me with fish-scented fingers for the rest of the day?

Or perhaps I’m supposed to utilise the knife that came with my bagels?

Regardless, I resort to using the knife to clumsily cut and lift it to my mouth.

The salmon is perfectly acceptable – cool, juicy and nicely smoked – but I can’t help feeling disappointed that this was all that was on offer. Despite my best efforts to give it a fair chance, the truth is I find none of it appealing – even the décor.

What may be considered trendy and stylish to some can appear barren and devoid of character to others. The interiors are, as I’ve mentioned, stark white and minimalistic, featuring industrial metal counters and doors, and hanging lamps with spider-like cages beneath them that seem to serve no purpose.

Loaves of bread are piled in the window and untouched bottles of sauce are lined up on counters like unused props. You simply can’t manufacture atmosphere with a checklist approach.

Perhaps the Gail’s branch I’m visiting is an anomaly and not reflective of the entire chain, but if it harbours plans to expand across Britain, then this poor example could be a forewarning of what’s to come. It doesn’t bode well for Gail’s if this is the level of service customers can anticipate, and as for local independents, if they can outperform (and there’s no reason why a dedicated business owner couldn’t), then perhaps when the dust settles, they’ll still be standing in ten years with another newcomer on the scene.