The burger joint has been talked about a lot lately (Image: MEN)
Over the weekend, my mobile was inundated with messages from friends. They were all curious about one thing.
latest pop-up has been causing a stir far beyond our city boundaries. The new eatery has been going viral for a variety of reasons.
Last week, the team behind Stockport restaurant Where The Light Gets In launched their new city centre joint, Humbug. Essentially, the focus is on sustainability, with ‘nose-to-tail’ burgers, alongside mushroom popcorn and – gulp – a £40 deposit (we’ll get to that shortly).
The restaurant has mainly caught attention due to comments made by chef Sam Buckley, who told one outlet that the concept explored ‘the notion of fast food in a social and historical context’. This is certainly not your typical .
It led to accusations that the project was ‘performative’ and ‘pretentious’. To be honest, I don’t think his comments do much to dispel such claims, reports .
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The meal deal comes with a range of treats (Image: MEN)
Memes and posts on social media left the Great British public with mixed feelings about the concept. “Everything’s so performative,” one person responded, while another labelled it as ‘pretentious nonsense’ that they felt only served as ‘an excuse to overcharge the consumer’.
On the other hand, some described it as a ‘powerful concept’, a ‘great way to reconnect people where their food comes from’ and, excuse the pun, ‘real food for thought’.
Despite the pretences, there’s a lot to appreciate about Humbug’s concept. According to Sam, each of the 1,200 burgers sold will originate from one Cheshire-bred Red Poll cow named Maraschino, with patties made from prime cuts, offal and everything in between.
This certainly sparks a much-needed conversation about meat sustainability and over-consumption, but whether this message has been effectively conveyed remains to be seen. The £40 per person deposit doesn’t help, leaving me feeling frustrated and resentful before I’ve even entered.
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The menu tried extremely hard to explain the concept (Image: MEN)
In today’s climate, where we frequently hear from owners about fleeting bookings, I’m not against restaurant deposits. They provide stability and security for the venue, but a £40 per person deposit seems excessive, particularly for what is essentially a burger and fries.
However, many customers enjoy exclusivity, and there are enough people willing to pay for it. One way to view it is that I’ve already paid for my meal before arriving, but none of my friends consider joining me once I mention the deposit due to it being January, so I end up visiting Humbug alone on a chilly Tuesday night.
Dubbed as the second act of Play in the City, a three-month residency challenging ‘how the city feels itself and the true cost of food’, this burger joint is nestled within the KAMPUS neighbourhood (just look for the neon green burger sign next to Nell’s). Upon arrival, I’m warmly welcomed by the chefs and servers who guide me to my table and explain that since I’ve already paid my deposit, I could either go for the £40 happy meal – essentially everything on the menu – or select individual items.
The menu primarily offers two types of burgers (a Hamburger or a vegetarian humburger both priced at £12.50 each). There are also side dishes like onion rings, Lion’s Mane or Carlingford Oyster popcorn and fries, with prices ranging from £4.50 to £9, along with an array of dips costing £2 each.
After some quick mental arithmetic to determine value for money, I decide to go all out and opt for the Happy Meal. For £40, you get a burger, a pot of cheese sauce, fries, onion rings, popcorn, a dip of your choice and a soft serve ice cream to finish.
As I’m not particularly fond of oysters (which were sold out during my visit anyway), I choose the Lion’s Mane popcorn. Expressing my apprehension about not being a mushroom fan, my server reassures me that they actually have a meaty texture rather than the distinct mushroom taste and feel.
Well, we’ll see about that. My order arrived at the table within ten minutes, served on a tray with each item individually potted and the burger wrapped up. Initially, it was slightly overwhelming, but I quickly dived in, starting with the mushroom popcorn.
Surprisingly, it was quite good – the Cajun spice added an extra kick and the server’s recommendation was spot on. The texture was meaty, and had I not known they were mushrooms, I wouldn’t have guessed.
The onion rings were a standout, dusted with a subtle yet generous amount of salt and vinegar powder, they were deep-fried perfection. However, be prepared to use plenty of napkins.
The fries were satisfactory, although a tad too salty for my liking, especially considering the rest of the meal was already heavily seasoned. Then, with a board displaying the number ‘673’ (indicating the countdown until the entire cow is used), I moved onto the burger.
It was flavourful, rich, and incredibly juicy. Despite its lack of photogenic appeal, the toasted brioche, onions, and cheese sauce elevated the burger to another level.
Additionally, the small pot of apple barbecue sauce provided a smoky and sweet complement that was simply delightful. At this juncture, I feel the concept has truly come to fruition. The backstory and journey to get here adds a whole new layer of appreciation for the food before me.
I want to savour each mouthful because, quite frankly, I don’t want Maraschino’s life to have been in vain (we’ll tackle the ethics of meat-eating another time). This is what elevates it from a good burger to an exceptional one. Without this context, I could have consumed the same burger and had a vastly different dining experience. Perhaps that’s the question the chef and his team are trying to pose.
To finish off my meal, the soft serve is another delightful surprise. It’s creamy goodness, smothered in butterscotch sauce and chunky biscuit crumbles. It’s a sugar high that I thoroughly enjoy, even if the pot does feature a cow staring back at me, prompting me to question my actions. Having well and truly exceeded my deposit, I end up having to fork out just over £10 for my drink and service charge, which seems a tad steep for what you receive.
I’m not as bitter about the deposit now that I’ve actually paid over it, but £50 for a burger, some sides and an ice cream does seem rather pricey – especially when, as I await my bill, ODB’s ‘Got Your Money’ echoes through the sound system, providing a somewhat ironic commentary on proceedings.
While the experience has given me a fresh perspective on the journey of my food and made me ponder over-consumption, I would have preferred to learn these lessons at a lower cost. However, it must be said that despite its pretentiousness, the burger was quite good and perhaps doesn’t deserve all the flak it’s been receiving online.