Traeth Mawr, a large but secluded sandy beach near the village of Aberffraw (Image: Steve Williams)
Many centuries ago, a Royal house known as the House of Aberffraw stood near the south-west coast of Anglesey, within the old Kingdom of Gwynedd.
This dynasty was established in the 9th century by the then King of Wales, whose descendants went on to found the Welsh Royal houses.
The village took its name from the River Ffraw, near which the early kings of Gwynedd established their main family seat at the Royal court.
Aberffraw was once a prehistoric settlement that was later occupied during the Roman period between c. 0-400 AD.
It served as a Welsh princely court and played a crucial role in the Gwynedd dynasty. The town thrived until the 13th century when the Kingdom of Gwynedd and the Royal house itself ended with the conquest of Wales by Edward I and the death of the last prince, Dafydd III, in 1283.
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Anglesey Coast Path (Image: Daily Post Wales)
Today, Aberffraw is a far cry from its past as the primary seat of the princes of Gwynedd during the Middle Ages. According to the 2021 Census, it is home to around 597 residents. Despite being a peaceful and sleepy village, there is a sense of quiet beauty here, surrounded by stunning landscapes.
In 2023, Aberffraw was crowned the best place to live on Ynys Mon, according to a North Wales Live poll. The Telegraph also lavished praise on the village, describing it as: “Nowadays, the village is a huddle of pretty stone and pastel-painted cottages peeking above the tidal waters of the River Ffraw. With the first glimmer of sun, you’ll race with childlike joy over wind-whipped dunes to its gorgeous sweep of powdery sand, Traeth Mawr.”
Despite its small size, Aberffraw is a hub of community spirit, boasting Welsh whitewashed cottages, a welcoming pub, convenient shops, a post office, a cosy cafe, a vibrant village hall, and an art gallery, all nestled along the picturesque River Ffraw estuary. For those in search of a traditional pint, The Crown (Y Goron) offers great food, local ales, and a warm welcome to both residents and visitors.
For a delightful dining experience, Llys Llewelyn Cegin Bar on Chapel Street is the go-to spot. This charming cafe dishes out sandwiches, toasties, paninis, homemade soup, and cake.
Garnering nearly 200 online reviews, patrons have lauded it for its “amazing breakfast”, “nothing short of magnificent” afternoon teas, and “very welcoming” staff.
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The single-span stone bridge over the Afon Ffraw at Aberffraw, Anglesey, was built in 1731 by Sir Arthur Owen (Image: Phil Taylor)
For those seeking adventure, Aberffraw has an abundance of open spaces perfect for explorers. Just a leisurely 25-minute stroll east from the quaint village lies the stunning stretch of sand dunes and beach known as Traeth Mawr.
The Visit Anglesey website details how easy it is to access this hidden gem on foot, with convenient parking available on the western side. You can locate the car park by veering off the A4080 or by simply entering ‘LL63 5LJ’ into your sat-nav or smartphone.
Embark on an enchanting walk from the car park, cross the picturesque bridge, and amble through idyllic countryside to unveil Traeth Mawra beach, often touted as Anglesey’s “best kept secret”. Far less crowded than the close-by Traeth Rhosneigr or Traeth Llanddwyn, its ‘true’ allure lies in its exceptional sand dunes.
The dunes, teeming with a wide variety of plants and wildlife, are home to some exceptionally rare species, such as shore dock and petal-wort. The fixed dune system supports plant life, including red fescue, lady’s bedstraw, marram grass, and early sand-grass.
Designated as both a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Special Area of Conservation, these dunes offer more than just beauty; they are a haven for botanical enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.
This region boasts a prime example of mobile dunes, characterised by large rolling ridges of shifting sand. The landscape alters almost daily due to changes in wind direction, yet the surrounding scenery remains constant.
Against the backdrop of Aberffraw’s pastel-coloured houses, horse riders cool off in Afon Ffraw (Image: Phil Taylor)
To the east and south-east, you can glimpse Eryri, Yr Eifl and Pen Llyn (Llyn Peninsula), while the west offers views of the expansive Irish Sea.
From this point, numerous landmarks are accessible via the Anglesey coastal path and the Wales Coast Path. Heading east, you’ll pass historical sites such as Cwningar Trefriw, Porth Cadwaladr, Porth Cae-ceffylau and Porth y Cwch.
Venturing westward, you can explore Porth Trefyn, Braich Lwyd, Porth Aels, Trwyn y Wylan and even reach Porth Cwyfan, a stunning cove. Here lies the enchanting St Cwyfan’s Church on the small island of Cribinau, just offshore.
At high tide, the quaint church is entirely isolated from the mainland, encircled by the sea. However, at low tide, visitors can approach closer.
For a memorable souvenir from your Aberffraw visit, nothing beats the scallop-shaped Aberffraw biscuit from Aberffraw Biscuit Co. As Britain’s oldest biscuit, it’s believed to date back to the 13th century.
The tale of the biscuit’s origin is tied to a Welsh king who was holding court in Aberffraw. His wife, while taking a leisurely walk on the nearby beach, chanced upon a charming scallop shell and asked for a cake to be baked in its likeness.
Although its Royal connection may have faded, Aberffraw’s charming village, sand dunes, stunning beach and rugged landscape continue to endure.