I visited pretty and colourful UK seaside town — I turned a corner and everything changed

If you’ve heard about a place from others who have , or perhaps you’ve only seen it through Google Maps, your expectations might not align with the reality.

I packed a small suitcase for a work trip to the picturesque of , thinking I knew what to expect, but I was far off the mark.

As a city girl used to zipping around (within the 20mph limit, naturally) in an old Mini Cooper and frequently using the M4 and other motorways, I was somewhat apprehensive about the two-and-a-half-hour journey, particularly leaving the M4/A48 at Cross Hands and venturing into unfamiliar territory on a winding, single-lane A-road as darkness fell.

However, my worries were unfounded as this part of the journey took just over an hour and included a captivating drive through Lampeter, a charming town that immediately caught my eye and is next on my list to explore.

We arrived in Aberaeron on a wet and windy Monday evening in November, so our best hope was finding an open shop. As we drove down a dark side street looking for parking, we were relieved to see one, ensuring we wouldn’t go hungry.

The car park at the end of the street was dark and deserted, leading me to believe my preconceived notion of Aberaeron during the off-season was accurate – a ghost town suffering from second home ownership, with few open businesses and an eerily quiet atmosphere.

The sea breeze was invigorating, replacing the usual city sounds of sirens and traffic with crashing waves on the pebble shore – at least nature provided a memorable welcome.

As we walked along the deserted harbour wall and turned a corner, everything changed. Lights hung from pillars reflected off the harbour water, and most of the charming painted houses had warm lights glowing in the windows – the town was alive after all, reports .

Peering through the window of the Harbourmasters restaurant, we were surprised to see it two-thirds full on a rainy, windy Monday night in November.

The welcome inside was warm, the atmosphere relaxed, and the food was delicious, rivalling any fine dining I’ve experienced in Cardiff.

In fact, exploring the quaint town the next day under winter sunshine, it seemed to have become a bit of a foodie haven, boasting artisan bakeries like Watson and Pratts, and award-winning restaurants such as The Harbourmasters and The Stubborn Duckling.

There were a variety of cafes, with The Hive and Bwyty McCowans standing out, along with several welcoming pubs including The Black Lion and the Castle Hotel.

In the town centre, Y Seler and the New Celtic restaurant were notable. The town also boasts a Chinese takeaway and the classic chippie, although regrettably, there wasn’t enough time to sample the delicious food at every establishment. The journey to The Moo-tel accommodation at The Moody Cow farm complex took just 10 minutes on Monday night.

After a restful night and a hearty full English breakfast, we had a pre-arranged meeting at The Moody Cow restaurant on site before driving back down into Aberaeron.

This time, in the sunshine, the town looked stunning as we descended the hillside into the centre, with flashes of colour from every angle.

Each painted house proudly displayed its chosen façade colour; pink, blue, navy, yellow, green – each one contributing to the overall visual spectacle. Perhaps what makes this town so visually captivating is the uniformity of its primarily Georgian and Victorian terraces, a product of the town’s unique history.

The Reverend Alban Thomas Jones planned these streets around 1805, with architect Edward Haycock designing them as part of an ambitious project to enhance the harbour and create a more functional port.

Originally, all the cottages were grey stone properties, but the trend for colourful facades only began in the 1950s when local landlady Phyllis Sewell painted her three houses bright pink.

After a quick but delicious cake and tea at The Hive, a harbourside restaurant, the afternoon was spent engaging with some of the lovely locals to create content for WalesOnline, including a Facebook Live tour through the streets of beautiful properties.

Following the broadcast, several locals who had been watching found me to express their gratitude for highlighting their town – a gesture that truly made my day. A daily stroll along the beach or harbour walkway could easily become a cherished routine, offering a full sensory experience of the coast.

The town is ideally situated for visiting some of Wales’ most stunning beaches and secluded coves. Chris Thomas at The Moo-tel informed me that there are six beaches within a six-mile radius to discover.

If I were to return in the summer, parking might pose a challenge. Also, do keep an eye on the pavement as there was noticeably more dog mess than in the city I had just left.

Despite only spending two days in and around Aberaeron, it appeared to be a bustling town, lively, with local residents once the summer crowds have dispersed. The Memorial Hall hosts a variety of events, including local clubs, craft fairs, occasional films, and serves as a base for Memorama, the local drama society, and the snooker club.

The town also boasts an indoor swimming pool for its 1,274 residents. However, the sight of a few vacant shop units raises concerns about the health of the high street.

If you’re someone who prefers having a national coffee chain on your doorstep or doesn’t want to travel far to catch the latest film, Aberaeron might not be your cup of tea. Yet, its unique and independent vibe adds to its charm.

Despite the temptation to window-shop at estate agents, if property prices are anything to go by, the town remains a desirable place to live and visit. The only downside might be the limited supply and high demand, which means your property budget may not stretch as far as it would elsewhere.

While the town does have a percentage of holiday lets to accommodate tourists – whose visits boost the local economy – they are hard to spot among the well-kept homes that line each quaint residential road and surround the beautiful harbour area. Perhaps the town’s pebbly and rocky beach, rather than a sandy one, has ‘saved’ it from being overrun by second homes and holiday lets.

There’s a plethora of shops offering local Welsh gifts and unique home accessories, including Seld where a friendly shop assistant and a customer from Cardiff discovered they knew some of the same people. It seems Wales is still a village.

Parsley and Thyme is another high street highlight, offering clothes as well as home accessories and gifts. Keeping warm while looking stylish is easy if you visit Glamôr, which sells scarves, hats and a range of accessories.

These are just a few establishments I had time to explore, with a surprising number of independent stores to discover on my next visit. And there will be a next visit, as the town fully embraced me and captivated me.

The combination of properties, friendly people and unique atmosphere creates a very special place, a gem on the Welsh coast. Its ambience wafts through its streets and wraps you in a welcoming hug.

I can’t wait to return.