Arundel is a pretty market town just 90 minutes from London (Image: Jonathan Buckmaster)
On a dull, December afternoon, the quintessentially English market town of feels like a little haven from the rest of the world.
Often overshadowed by its , the West Sussex home of one of the UK’s is best explored on-foot – where it offers plenty of cosy cafes and shops to wander round and bundled-up, rosy cheeked locals ready with smiles and idle chit-chat.
With no permanent , unlike the other towns and cities whose cobblestone streets are crammed with visitors as soon as December hits, it’s not hard to see why Arundel was named one of Europe’s most “relaxed” spots by TravelSupermarket earlier this year.
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The High Street is packed with independent businesses full of welcoming, chatty locals (Image: Jonathan Buckmaster)
Independent shops and cafes
The festive cheer in Arundel is palpable in December despite the relative quiet – with string light-decked fir trees dotting the High Street and Grade II listed castle walls, and traditional Christmas carols drifting out of independent retailers including the family-run Lily’s Chocolate Box, Fanny Adams and Jam Gallery.
A highlight of Arundel’s festive calendar is the Farmer’s Market on December 21 – but on any wintry weekday, the town’s cafes and tearooms are packed with cosily wrapped-up locals and day-trippers tucking into full English breakfasts, tea and coffee.
The proliferation of family-run businesses in the town centre is a crucial part of the West Sussex spot’s charm – many of them cloistered in small, intimate units filled with quirky furniture, low ceilings and pretty wall hangings.
Arundel is also a must-visit for antique collectors or anyone with a burgeoning interest in collecting unique and outside-the-box pieces of furniture, homeware and odds and ends. Arundel Bridge Antiques and Spencer Swaffer Antiques are my recommendations for a well-spent morning – or full day – of leisurely browsing.
The castle that towers above the town is over 900 years old (Image: Getty)
Surrounding countryside
The town’s wide range of eating and drinking nooks are the perfect place to map out walking routes around the South Downs – a long-distance foot and bridle path just two miles away.
Popular routes include the Arundel River Arun loop via St Leonard’s Church, the South Downs Way walk between Arundel and Bramber and the Arundel Castle Circular, leading hikers around the 900-year-old castle that dominates the landscape.
It’s also the perfect day trip for a Sunday pub walk – with a superior route leading amblers along a stretch of the River Arun to the Black Rabbit pub, nestled on the riverbank with gorgeous castle views.
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There are plenty of beautiful walks around Arundel (Image: Getty)
Local history and landmarks
There’s lots to explore in the way of local history too, dating all the way back to Arundel’s roots as an Anglo Saxon village.
Its name comes from the Norman-French word for a swallow, Arondel, and a central museum, manned by friendly and knowledgeable volunteers, is the perfect place to cement your understanding of the market town’s rich background.
The imposing 150-year-old cathedral also anchors the town’s skyline and the beautiful River Arun – still striking in December – adds an ambience to its hybrid urban and countryside appeal that I imagine would be even more scenic in peak summer season, offering the best of both small town and rural life.
Transport links
While not yet a hotspot for winter visitors, in the summer Arundel can be chockablock, full of those looking for a walkable, picturesque parish within a stones throw of both London (90 minutes on the train) and the beach (Littlehampton is just five miles away by car).
If you fancy taking a break from the packed crowds of London at Christmas, Arundel is just a 90-minute train journey away from London Victoria, with a similar travel time by car via the M23, A23 and A27.
And Arundel train station is just a 15-minute walk from the town centre, making it a straightforward day out all-round.
Friendly faces
One of the most striking things when visiting the town is the friendliness of locals – clearly not disillusioned by the flocks of tourists that can descend during busy summer months.
As I grab a vegetable pasty from the Moathouse Bakeaway at the bottom of the High Street – warm and richly flavoured – owner Kim Finch is more than happy to chat about the town’s popularity, which she says is a visitor attraction in its own right.
“People don’t come here because they’re just passing by – they come to Arundel because they want to come to Arundel,” Kim said. “There’s so much here – the castle, the cathedral and all these shops.”
It’s also all smiles at Cockburn’s Tea Rooms, a not-so-hidden gem that boasts rows of homemade pastries and cakes from its spot in the middle of the High Street. It is also the producer of one of the best mince pies I’ve ever tasted – best enjoyed near the centre’s towering Christmas tree for maximum festive effect.