‘I went to the underrated French city that’s in the most magical place on Earth’

Dordogne

Dordogne in France offers charming beauty throughout with some of the most delicious foods ever (Image: Getty)

It is the start of December and I am visiting the Dordogne region located in southwest , between the Loire Valley and the Pyrenees mountains.

Dordogne steals the hearts of most of its visitors and has even been .

It is divided into four areas, each with its own colour and distinct characteristics.

While Périgord Noir (black) is named after the region’s plentiful truffles, Périgord Blanc (white), is named after its chalk cliffs and quarries. There is also Périgord Vert (green), named after its forests and forestry, and Périgord Pourpre (crimson) which is named for its wine and viticulture.

This colour distinction system clearly indicates what this magical area in France has to offer, with tantalising food and drink, spectacular sights, and rich culture in spades. 

My first stop is beautiful , a city known for its ancient Roman roots and diverse heritage spanning over 2,000 years.

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France, Dordogne, Castelnaud la Chapelle

Dordogne offers enchanting castles, medieval structures, culture and stunning sights throughout (Image: Getty)

Dordogne

The Château de Biron survived the centuries to become a major cultural site (Image: Dordogne and Perigord)

After a blissful night’s rest at , I am off to visit the region. I am met with narrow streets that traverse the region’s rich tapestry of medieval architecture, with limestone quays towering above the River Isle and charm found in every corner.

The Roman and Byzantine St Front Cathedral, on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, is ranked as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Designated as a city of Art and History, Périgueux is Dordogne’s capital and boasts buildings registered or classified as Historic Monuments of France. 

Dordogne is known as one of France’s best gastronomic regions, so of course I sampled the many delights Périgueux is well known for, including the popular foie gras, truffles, chocolates and delicious cheeses that melt in your mouth. 

The city is also home to a charming offering a host of delights and treats including local crafts, a skating rink, live music and a parade. It is open from November 30, 2024, to January 4, 2025.

Next on my culinary journey is Trémolat, and I am immediately met with charming scenes of picturesque homes scattered along the Dordogne river, with lovely views as far as the eye can see.

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Perigord Truffle, tuber melanosporum, Drome in the South east of France

Truffles are a dime a dozen in the Dordogne with a number of truffle markets and festivals (Image: Getty)

Dordogne

The village of Sarlat is a true gem and comes alive during the Christmas period with its market (Image: Dordogne and Perigord)

Dordogne

La Roque Saint-Christophe are natural caves that have been occupied by man since prehistoric times (Image: Dordogne and Perigord)

The grand is where I called home for the evening. The old owner left this prestigious accommodation to his four staff members whose passion and pride have kept this hotel in tip top shape and are proud to be celebrating their upcoming 75th anniversary.

The next day I met with my knowledgeable driver and guide, , who took me to Biron to visit the .

This place is a true wonder as it is the seat of one of Périgord’s oldest baronies and is a major cultural site surrounded by fortified towns. 

in Vézac were next on the list. They are perfectly perched on a rocky outcrop and overlook the Dordogne valley – they are a gardening enthusiast’s dream.

The gardens are one of the finest panoramas in the region. They are a listed site offering poetic scenes with 150,000 hundred-year-old hand-trimmed box trees, rock gardens, water courses and theatres of greenery.

in Saint Vincent de Cosse was where I rested my weary head after a day of stunning gardens and ancient castles, with a trip to Sarlat on offer the following day.

is truly a gem when it comes to quaint spots. It was hands down one of the prettiest towns I’ve ever visited.

It is one of the region’s most famous and renowned medieval towns and one of the most visited in France, with pinch-me moments galore.

The stunning architecture of the Saint Sacerdos Cathedral, Place du Marche aux Oies, and the Manoir de Gisson are all well worth a visit. The region is also home to a quaint  which each year features a different country that inspires the market’s overall feel and culinary delights

Peyzac-le-Moustier was next. It is where you’ll find a veritable wall of limestone that’s one kilometre long and 80 metres high and was once the homes of hundreds of people who dwelled within this fascinating structure.

Around a hundred rock shelters have been carved out of its aerial terraces, making way for natural caves that have been occupied by man since prehistoric times.

December sees La Roque Saint-Christophe decked out in magnificent Christmas decorations and lights, as well as a monumental nativity scene. 

Learning about the fascinating way people used to live in these rock caves called the end of my fabulous trip to the Dordogne region.

And with a full belly, a spirit in my heart and the joy of meeting some truly wonderful people, my trip to the Dordogne came to an end but it certainly will not be the last time I visit this magical spot.

Upcoming festivals in Dordogne include the La fête de la truffe (truffle festival) in Sarlat on January 18 – 19, Sarlat Fest’oie (Périgord Goose festival) on March 1st – 2nd and the Châteaux en fête’ event.

operates a line between Bergerac and London City Airport during summer from mid-June to the end of September, with special Christmas flights from mid-December to the beginning of January.

Alternatively, you can reach Dordogne with the Bordeaux-Gatwick line which operates all year long.

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