Use the occasion to sing Beaujolais’ general graces, which also means praising Gamay, the grape used to make red Beaujolais
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The third Thursday of each November will always signal the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau. While I admittedly no longer go out of my way to race to the liquor store and procure a bottle — the high prices for what is meant to be a fun, simple and celebratory wine are not warranted — I’ll happily continue to use the occasion to sing Beaujolais’ general graces, which also means praising Gamay, the grape used to make red Beaujolais. Sure, the prices for these bottles have also climbed significantly, but they come with more serious style.
Domaine André Colombe et Fils 2022 Beaujolais Villages, France
($21.99 on sale until Nov. 23rd, #284222)
The Beaujolais hierarchy is pretty straightforward. Aside from Beaujolais Nouveau, the ascending order of regulated classifications are Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, and Cru Beaujolais. To get a bottle of Beaujolais Villages for around $20 is a fair deal, and the current sale price brings this bottle pretty close. Of course it’s 100 per cent Gamay, with ample aromas of berry, plum, and violet. The overall stature is quite robust for a Beaujolais Villages, with a rich entry met by savoury, earthy undertones and — this being Gamay — an overall freshness before a grippy finish. Serve with pot roast or mushroom-heavy sauces.
Bottom line: A-, Heady, grippy red.
Les Roches Bleues La Croquante 2023 Brouilly, France
($30.99 on sale until Nov. 23rd, #296767)
At the top of the Beaujolais classification pyramid — and therefore theoretically the peak of top drop Beaujolais, are bottles from the 10 demarcated crus. Brouilly is both the largest and most southern of the crus, at the base of Mont Brouilly. Made from organically grown grapes and pouring a dullish garnet, La Croquante Brouilly bursts with red fruit and floral aromatics. A juicy entry complemented by savoury tones and a fulsome yet lively finish provide a compelling balance of complexity and easy drinkability. This is a great food red, ready to pair with an array of meals from fajitas to roast chicken.
Bottom line: A-, Fulsome yet lively.
Haywire 2022 Gamay, B.C.
($31.99, available through the winery and select private wine stores)
It’s not like Beaujolais has exclusive rights to Gamay, so while the Nouveau release rightfully centres on the region, in the spirit of celebrating Gamay it’s worth looking at bottles from other areas. In B.C. there is a bevy of fun Gamay, including this agreeable bottle from Summerland’s Haywire. It’s made entirely from Gamay, 50 per cent of which is whole cluster pressed before fermentation in small open top tanks, and with an abundance of bright fruit and an inherent liveliness this red is smile inducing. Juicy berry, cotton candy aromatics intro a fruity, silky style — with herbs and a lick of spice building to conclude.
Bottom line: A-, Tickles the tastebuds.
The Swirl: Light Up Summerland